Arrived at Kyoto station by limo bus from Arima onsen town around noon. Dashed to our fav Kaiten-sushi shop, serving seasonal fresh seafood from Hokuriku.
After dropping our luggage in Kyoto hotel, we headed to Tenju-an – a subtemple in Nanzen-ji. While the latter is filled with loads of tourists, there were relatively less visitors in that afternoon when we visited.
Tenju-an (天授庵)
Apart from landscape gardens, it also has a small pond with reflections of peak koyo.
Left after an hour – on the way out with different perspectives.
After checking out from onsen hotel in Nara/Tenri in early morning, drove to Katsuo-ji in Minoh town – in the northern outskirts of Osaka Prefecture. While the original plan was to drop by the Minoh falls nearby, the mountain road was pretty congested outside the car park of Katsuo-ji (on Sunday). Thus, we decided to visit Katsuo-ji (勝尾寺) first. Turned out it was a right call in the end.
There were many visitors. Apart from the locals, we noticed many Thai-speaking visitors – surprise.
Katsuo-ji (勝尾寺)
pagoda
Hondo (Main Hall)
heading uphill to Hondo
praying in Hondo (Main Hall)
Kachi-daruma (winning Daruma)
There are numerous daruma dolls (large and small) inscribed with the character Katsu (winning) in the temple area. People pray for winning-luck in all aspects including success in academic tests, business, sports etc.
view of pagoda
Looking downhill
After staying for 1+ hour, we decided to leave for the Minoh Falls. Unfortunately, the road leading to it was blocked (on weekends in peak koyo season). Though there is another road approaching from the Minoh downhill, we decided to drop it as we had to catch an express bus (whose tickets had been booked) to Arima onsen in early afternoon.
Returned car in nearby Senri new town and had brief lunch. Arrived at Arima onsen town at around 3:30pm. It was flooded with visitors around the bus station on narrow mountainous roads. As this was our 3rd visit, we went to the onsen hotel for check-in right away.
Visited Akame 48 falls (赤目四十八滝) in Mie Prefecture as a day trip. The car park was full (on weekend) when we arrived at around 10am. Car key was surrendered to car park staff for parking.
Commenced our hiking close to 11am, where there were many people on the way. The falls are spread out along a deep and narrow gorge of about 4km, heading uphill with plenty of rocky stairs along the trail – some are slippery. We turned back after 1+ hour for lunch at the entrance where there are more local eateries.
Akame 48 falls (赤目四十八滝)
Fudo-taki
Senjutaki (thousand-hand)
Nunobiki-taki
Rocks layered in 8 levels
bottom of gorge
It was lucky to have another nice day with blue sky and peak Koyo. At the entrance the Japanese giant salamanders could be watched living in tanks, though most of them were immobile. After lunch, we strolled around the local shops displaying Ninja related artifacts/toys before returning to Nara/Tenri. The ancient Iga Ninjas were trained in the mountains/gorge in Akame.
Returning to Yoshinoyama we visited the World Heritage Kinpusen-ji (金峯山寺) in Naka Senbon.
Zao-do (Main Hall) is a huge wooden structure with 3 huge statues of Zao Gongen inside (no photo is allowed). Also dropped by Nyorin-ji (如意輪寺) which is part of the world heritage.
Kinpusen-ji Zao-do
Zao-do (Main Hall)
Nyorin-ji
Chrysanthemum also in season
On the next morning, drove uphill to Kami and Oku Senbon after checkout. Roads are mostly steep, winding and narrow that it can barely allow 2 cars on either direction so had to steer slowly. It was worthy as gorgeous koyo tunnel awaited at an observation point in Kami Senbon !!
koyo tunnel
Shoryaku-ji (正暦寺)
Afterwards, we left Yoshino and headed north to Shoryaku-ji where it is surrounded by a forest of 3,000 trees in a multitude of colours.
Giant Ginkgo tree in golden yellow and other trees weaved into colourful palettes.
Giant Ginkgo tree
Had late lunch in a local and inexpensive Kaiten-sushi shop. Checked into onsen hotel in Tenri for 2 nights. Had coffee-cake sets in nice and spacious coffee house.
It was the second and final koyo trip in 2019. We visited Kinki area in 10 days in late to end Nov focusing on spots in Nara Prefecture in the beginning, before returning to Kyoto as in the last few years.
Upon landing in Osaka/KIX, picked up rental car and drove to Mt. Yoshino in Nara Prefecture. Arrived at historical ryokan Chikurinin Gunpoen (竹林院群芳園) in Naka Senbon after 4pm. No sightseeing as it was getting dark (sunset before 5pm). We stayed there for 2 nights.
On the next morning, visited the historical landscape garden in the ryokan which is famous for sakura, where Toyotomi Hideyoshi (豊臣 秀吉) had visited more than 400 years ago. Koyo was in peak.
Next, we drove downhill to Tanzan Jinja near Sakurai in less than 1 hour. It is famous for the unique 13-storey wooden pagoda in Japan. Besides, locals pray for love/marriage.
Gorgeous fall colours 🙂
Giant Ginkgo tree in golden yellow
Inside the Main Hall and Jinja ground
“Koi-Jinja” – falling in love
costume in Heian era
football in ancient style
Next, drove to nearby historical Hasedera (長谷寺) of more than 1,000 years. Had brief lunch in the temple town downhill. Climbed nearly 400 stairs before arriving at the Hondo (Main Hall).
Hasedera (長谷寺)
Hasedera – chief temple
entrance
start climbing
finishing line
Hondo (Main Hall), 5-storey Pagoda
Outside the Hondo there is a large wooden deck with breathtaking views of the buildings below and the 5-storey Pagoda, surrounded by peak koyo.
On the next morning, headed up to Ginsendai after checking out from the Sounkyo onsen hotel. The temporary shuttle bus had much less passengers and after 35 min it arrived at the trailhead at over 1500m.
It was a cloudy day while sunlight pierced through clouds from time to time. The trail leading up to Akadake was less muddy in the beginning though after 15 min it was in snow and puddles as in Kogen onsen. Further up the trail was narrower and completely covered in some form of hardened snow. Arrived at a viewing point where koyo could be viewed (unblocked by trees). Koyo had clearly past its peak in pale red as expected due to snow and higher elevations. Stayed for about 10 min and returned.
registration mandatory for hikers
Tenninkyo / Hagaromo Falls (天人峡/羽衣の滝)
Returned to Sounkyo for brief lunch before noon. Drove to Tenninkyo about 100km away (3rd visit). Arrived at around 2pm+ and followed a flat trail of about 600m to Hagoromo falls. That trail had been closed for a few years due to landslides and was reopened recently.
In our 2nd visit 10 years ago the observation deck was at a higher and closer point where the Y-shaped falls could be seen in full. Sadly, the onsen hotel we stayed in 2004 had been closed.
Hagoromo fall
the other fall partially obscured by trees
forested path
pillared rocks
While on the way to our onsen hotel in Furano, dropped by Biei before sunset for Daisetuszan, Mt Tokachi range on the distant horizon, Family trees and Ken & Mary tree.
Daisetsuzan
Mt Tokachi range
Family trees – close up
Family trees
Ken & Mary Tree
New Prince Furano Hotel – 3rd stay and sumptuous western dinner course.
grilled abalone
lobster bisque
scallop and rockfish
Beef fillet and venison
berries’ dessert
Returned car in Furano station on the next morning and took Chuo express bus back to Sapporo on another rainy day.
Next we headed further up to Midori-numa (緑沼), another gorgeous koyo spot. As it was one of the few spots with wooden benches and where eating was permitted, it was full of hikers at nearly noon time.
Did not rest and continue uphill to Ezo-numa (エゾ沼). Koyo was less impressive than in our 1st visit in 2004.
Ezo-numa
Next was Shikibu-numa (式部沼) which was probably the most gorgeous pond of the day.
Arrived at Daigaku-numa (大学沼) whose resting area was entirely covered in snow and puddles. Took a brief rest and quickly consumed an onigiri where eating was also permitted.
Daigaku-numa
Spoke to park patrols on-duty and attempted further uphill to Kogen-numa but had to give up. That trail had become very slippery due to snow and mud all submerged beneath mountain streams. By then it was past 1pm, chilly at probably 5-6C and many hikers had returned. It was at the same location that wife and I had reached in 2004.
Upon descent took some quick snaps on some swamps such as Kamo-numa, Basho-numa etc.
above Shikibu-numa
near Kamo-numa
Basho-numa
Finally returned to the trailhead at almost 3:30pm. Took the last shuttle bus (seated) back to the temporary parking lot. Drove back to the onsen hotel at around 5pm – exhausted though grateful.
** Lessons learned
Apart from proper mountain hiking gears including waterproof hiking shoes and trekking poles, renting waterproof plastic boots up to shin (on spot) might be a better solution to trails strewn with muddy puddles, mountain streams and possibly snow.
It was a sunny day on the next morning and we had high hopes for koyo on our 3rd hike in Daisetsu Kogen onsen (大雪 高原温泉) 😎
Arrived at the temporary parking lot near Daisetsu dam before 9am and there were plenty of cars – it was the first day of a long weekend. Took the 9am bus (standing) uphill and attended a mandatory briefing in the Bear Information Centre (ヒグマ情報センター) – video in Japanese on trails/timings, bears, food and toilet arrangement etc.
Commenced hiking after 10am. Due to a mixture of mud, widespread puddles and snow along the trails the hike was slower and more demanding, while there were more hikers along the way than in our last two visits.
Reached the first pond – Tohyou-numa (土俵沼) at around 11:30. The pond surface had partially frozen to our surprise.
Tohyou-numa
Skipped the next Bashou-numa (till descent) and headed up to Takimi-numa (滝見沼) immediately. Koyo was less impressive though covered in snow – also photogenic 🙂
another original castle of almost 400 years. Visited on a national holiday with more crowds though fine. Day temps dropped to less than 10C and drizzling at times.
Inside the castle, climbs along the wooden stairs were steep – as in Himeji Castle.
Hikone Castle – 1 of 8 sights in Biwako
sightseeing boat sailing in the moat
staff ringing bell
rainbow over Biwako while lining up to enter the castle
view from inside the castle
Genkyu-en (玄宮園)
a beautiful landscape garden attached to Hikone Castle – not to be missed if visiting the castle.
an exhilarated swan
Hikone castle as the backdrop
Nikisaki-zakura – gifted from Mito
Had late lunch in shopping street close to castle. A udon shop had a fairly long line despite being close to 2pm. We chose the Aka-Oni (red ghost) udon served with famous local Omi-gyu (beef) in sukiyaki style – we were told to pour the entire hot soup onto the udon. This was the first time we had udon served with beef (commonly served with vege, tempura etc). Though we had waited for about 30 min, it was totally worthy 😀
From Kyoto, train to Omihachiman and picked up a rental car for a day to visit temples in Kotousanzan (湖東三山), literally the 3 mountains in Eastern Omi (Biwako).
Driving itin – Omihachiman > Hyakusaiji > Kongorinji > Keisokuji > return car in Maibara (no drop-off charge)
Hyakusai-ji (湖東三山 百済寺)
Crowded but fine. Most were locals by bus tours. Followed uphill path to Hondo. Gorgeous koyo was around the pond. Spent about 1 hour+.
approaching Niomon
Hondo
Kongorin-ji (湖東三山 金剛輪寺)
The most brilliant koyo of the day 😎
More crowded with mostly locals – parking lots for private cars and tour buses were quite full, despite on a weekday. Uphill path to Hondo and 3-storey pagoda was much longer and steeper at points, though the rewards were immense – koyo corridors and blood-stained koyo 「血染めのもみじ」 awaiting !
Entrance
koyo corridor
Hondo
blood-red koyo
3-storey pagoda embedded in koyo
same for Hondo
small cemeteries along the path
Upon returning downhill, dropped by the landscape garden (close to entrance at the base) and koyo was not inferior. Plenty of photographers aggregated around the pond and the blood-stained koyo.
Bonus – Jugatsu-zakura (October sakura) was also blooming 😆
Landscape garden
pond filled with fall leaves
Jugatsu-zakura also blooming
Keisoku-ji (鶏足寺)
literally “chicken-feet” temple. Attempted to visit in last Nov but had to turn back due to long line of cars not moving with no sight of nearby car parks whatsoever.
Located in northern Omi-Nagahama so took nearly 1 hour from Kongorin-ji, even by expressway. Staffs guided cars to a temporary unpaved parking lot (free of charge). As it was close to 4:30pm, I rushed to it following signs and crowds walking in opposite direction. Took about 20 min after some ups-and-downs, passing by farms on the way.
Renowned for carpet-like fallen leaves and indeed it was. Hondo was closed but still worthy to visit. Stayed for about 15 min and by the time I returned to the car park it was almost pitch dark.
