Stayed in Osaka/Umeda overnight after landing in KIX. On next morning took JR express train to Sanda, Hyogo Prefecture (40 min direct) and picked up a rental car. Dropped by Kogen-ji along the way to Sannin area.
Took about an hour to arrive at Kogen-ji along national roads. Picked this temple to catch its Tenmoku maple (天目かえで), which was said to be brought back from Mt Tenmu, Hanzhou (China) by its founding master monk where he was trained. The Tenmoku maple is characterized by smaller leaves and drooping branches.
Koyo was past peak when viewed from behind the 3-storey pagoda, let alone with plenty of falling leaves when stepping onto the temple ground. There were not many visitors on a normal weekday and we stayed for around 1 hour.
3-storey pagodalikely Tenmoku maple in close-up
Kinosaki onsen (城崎温泉)
Arrived at Kinosaki onsen town and took ropeway uphill. Nice views with peak koyo. Returned to onsen town and strolled around before checking into onsen hotel.
On top of the Kinosaki ropeway station
tombstone for kani (crab)
Had a sumptuous crab and beef dinner course in onsen hotel. One whole seasonal crab was served for each person with servings including steamed, grilled etc. Dinner commenced from 18:30 and it took well over 2 hours to finish – almost a record !
Took a stroll at dusk for night views as well as to help digestion. Luckily it was chilly though w/o strong wind. While there are several public onsen houses with free entry for staying customers, we did not bother but content with the rotenburo inside onsen hotel that we stay as usual.
Full crab and beef courseserene night views
On next morning had breakfast and strolled around before checking out.
view from hotel roomhuge Atago-nashi (pear)bun filled with Tajima-gyu (beef)
Stayed in luxurious onsen hotel with spacious room overlooking canal and pine trees. Meals were served in large dining room including seasonal crab, grilled beef etc.
Koyo was at peak and gorgeous with more visitors. Stayed for less than 1 hour.
Next we headed to the Osawa-no-ike (大沢池) adjacent to Daikoku-ji (大覚寺). We had visited the latter temple in 2016 for peak koyo but skipped the former as it was getting late and dark. Luckily when we visited the pond (in this trip) it was a clear day with blue sky.
Headed uphill to Takao for the first time. Road was winding with forests on either side of the road. Had late lunch in a small, terraced cafe overlooking the valley on the opposite side of the Kiyotaki river.
Visited Kosan-ji with gorgeous koyo. There were some crowds though not overwhelming, probably it was on a weekday and our visit was almost at 3pm. The temple ground was huge extending uphill for about 10-15 min of trekking from the main road. Stayed for an hour.
Kosan-ji
Returned to the main road and drove to Kyoto hotel – car returned.
On the next morning visited Manshu-in (曼殊院) to the north of Enko-ji, which we visited 3 years ago. Took Keihan commuter train to the Shugakuin station and taxi uphill to the main entrance. Koyo outside the temple wall formed a tunnel/boulevard where we spent 15 min.
Spotted a column commemorating the visit by the former Heisei Emperor and Queen.
Koyo tunnel outside ManshuinManshu-in entrance
Manshu-in has been visited by many members of the royal family in the past, with archived photos of their past visits exhibited inside the temple. Stayed for 1 hour. There were other visitors but not crowded.
While no photo is allowed inside the temple, it is permitted for the landscape garden.
Koyo from Manshu-in to Shugakuin station downhill via Saginomori Jinja – hardly any visitor except us.
Saginomori Jinja
On the next day visited the Kamigamo Jinja (上賀茂神社). There were more locals – some were dressed up in local customs for ceremonies. We left after 1 hour.
In retrospect when we visited the Shimogamo Jinja in 2019 for the same there were local couples and families dressed up for wedding ceremony.
Kamigamo Jinjamultiple Torii gates
On the next day we visited the National Museum of Modern Art Kyoto for a break. Apart from modern paintings, there was a special exhibition of Tsumugi Silk weaving by Shimura Fukumi.
Our last koyo visit in Kyoto was Sanzen-in, Ohara. Due to its distance from Kyoto downtown and lack of efficient public transports it has long been postponed. Picked up a rental car in Katata, Shiga Prefecture, whose driving distance is not just shorter but also avoiding the traffic jams in Kyoto downtown. It took less than 30 min with sparse traffic even on a Sunday morning.
Though it had the most crowds of all our koyo visits in this trip so far, it’s more spread out in its huge temple ground and landscape gardens in both up and downhill. We probably spent nearly 2 hours for one of the most spectacular koyo spots.
Sanzen-in, OharaSanzen-in entrance
Had lunch in a nearby local restaurant while marveling at the beautiful scenery outside. Dropped by a centre selling agricultural produce. Drove to our next onsen hotel in Biwako afterwards.
Checked into an onsen hotel for 3n overlooking Biwako from Moriyama city along the eastern lake rim. On the next day visited Chojyu-ji (湖南三山 長壽寺), literally meaning longevity. It has been worshipped by locals for safe delivery, healthy upbringing of kids apart from praying for long lives. The temple is a national treasure and has been founded more than 1200 years ago during the Heian-era.
It was serene. Koyo was absolutely stunning and with sparse visitors we stayed for 1+ hour.
National Treasure Chojyu-ji山号 阿星山 “Ashosan” Hakusan Jinja
For lunch we headed to nearby Morishima main shop in Omihachiman again since 2022, though we decided to try the western-style grilled Omi-gyu (beef) this time 🙂 It was delicious and highly recommended.
MorishimaOmi-gyu (beef)
On the last day in Biwako we visited the Konomiya Jinja (胡宮神社) uphill of Hikone city. It was serene with infrequent visitors. Stayed for roughly an hour and headed into the old shopping street in Hikone city looking for the delicious and unique beef soup noodles that we had prior to covid years. Unfortunately, it was closed on that day and we had lunch in another local eatery.
After lunch drove to outlet in Ryuoo for shopping and coffee before returning to hotel.
Konomiya Jinja
On the next day we checked out from Biwako onsen hotel, returned car in Katata and returned to Osaka/Namba by public transports. Stayed for another 3n before departure.
Spacious room overlooking Biwakoroom with ensuite onsenX’mas tree in the hotel lobbybridge crossing Biwako and connecting to Katata
In Namba we stayed in Nankai Swisshotel, which we used to stay some 10 years ago. We picked a more spacious room with views of Namba Parks and Tennoji etc. On the next day we visited a local Oden shop in Kobe city, introduced by a local TV program aired in this trip. Arrived at the shop during lunch time and it was fully seated by locals. Ordered Oden-lunch sets plus add-on items which were all inexpensive and delicious.
room overlooking Namba Parks and Tennojinight view of Namba Parksindoor swimming poolOden shop in Kobe cityNankai Rapi:t train
With nice and warm memories after 13 days we departed Kansai.
Overnight it had been raining though luckily when we checked out rain had stopped briefly until we’re on the airport limo bus en route to the Matsuyama airport. Airline checkin was brief and easy and so we had more than an hour to stroll around the shops and had a casual lunch before security. While we’re waiting rain became downpours with thunderstorms – bad sign! All the while the departure time / gate was missing for our flight to Fukuoka while most other domestic flights were not affected. re the local announcement it was due to the same thunderstorm affecting flights from Fukuoka. Our almost full plane was delayed for 1 hour and it was a fairly bumpy ride. Over the entire trip of less than 1 hour we hardly saw anything outside except clouds and rain until the last 5 min before landing when we finally caught sight of the city below. Thank God it touched down smoothly. Checked into a hotel opposite to the Hakata station in less than 30 min by city subway direct.
On next morning rain had stopped though it was cloudy. Visited the Fukuoka castle ruins / Maizuru park (2nd time) where sakura was at peak blossom (was late for several days). It was one of the highlights in this trip. Though it was a normal weekday it was fairly crowded. We stayed for about 2 hours.
Fukuoka Castle ruins / Maizuru Park
Upon return we strolled along the Ohori park with plenty of food stalls opening for business. Had unagi-don for lunch in Hitsumabushi style, paired with famous sake also from Aichi Prefecture in Nakasu. Afterwards strolled to Canal city had coffee/cake before returning to hotel.
On the next day we went for shopping. Overall had some delicious yet inexpensive meals in the dining floors of AMU Plaza on top of Hakata station. Also discovered a local coffee house serving coffee from Americas, Africa, Oceania before we left. It was a nice finale :))
food stalls in Ohori ParkUnagi-don shop in NakasuCanal cityhappy hour in airside lounge
On next morning after having breakfast we visited the Matsuyama Castle – 1 of 12 original castles in Japan. The castle is located on a mount about 100m+, served by a ropeway and chairlift on the side. We took the chairlift – first time of all our castle visits in Japan so far and commenced hiking up to the entrance of Honmaru (the Main Keep).
Inside the Main Keep there were several wings. All visitors had to follow a route heading up and down via narrow wooden stairs. There were plenty of artifacts and exhibits about the history of the castle, weapons, swords, armours used by samurai, shoguns etc.
Sakura was blooming at 50%, with early-blooming varieties such as Oshima, Youkou (literally sunlight) in peak blossom.
ascending via chairliftup to Honmarulocal kids on outingviews from the top floorOshima-zakuraYoukou-zakura
Ishitei-ji (石手寺)
After enjoying a Yuzu-taste ice-cream (in orange) and resting for a while, we descended back to the street level and waited for a route bus to Ishitei-ji. While we’re waiting I spotted the Hawaiian guy in his sunglasses whom we met the day before on the ferry. He had also finished visiting the castle – what a coincidence! We chatted briefly but we had to part again when the route bus arrived.
It took about 15 min to arrive at the temple.
Ishitei-ji (literally means stone hand temple) is temple number 51 along the 88 temples on the Shikoku Pilgrimage. This was the first temple we visited in Ehime Prefecture. Walking through a covered approach there were shops selling buddhist related artifacts though only a few were open. After entering via the Niomon the temple ground was filled with multiple halls and a 3-storey pagoda. On the left there’s another entrance where a long tunnel inside a cave was supposed to lead to an inner temple. We followed through it where some bats were flying along eerily. After about 5 min we emerged from the cave where there’s a mountain road though there was nothing resembling any temple infrastructure was in sight except for long grasses and forests. Feeling a bit disappointed we descended via the mountain road back to the main hall and left.
Niomonentrance to inner templelong tunnelDaishi-do (main hall)
Back to Dogo onsen we went for lunch in the shopping arcade. Ordered two Tai-meshi lunch sets which is famous locally. We like Tai (sea bream) sashimi anyway and the sets were delicious. Afterwards we strolled around the shopping arcade until it’s time for our reserved timeslot to visit the Dogo onsen Honkan restricted rooms where this is the only onsen in Japan the Japanese Emperor and Royalties stayed for onsen.
It was a small group of 7 people including the two of us led by a local lady speaking in English. She showed the Yushinden (gate) entrance where only Japanese Royalties could use. Indoor we were guided along narrow corridors outside the living/bedroom (without stepping in) with detail explanations about the architecture, symbols and usage. The indoor onsen room for soaking is in the basement with an adjacent changing room and a small Japanese garden. It lasted for about 30 min and the lady was very friendly responding to our questions as well as taking photos for us. This local tour is highly recommended.
Tai-meshi lunch setsoutside Asuka-no-yu where kids were running around small water jetsDogo onsen Honkan entrance for Japanese royalitiesYushinden – the only onsen in Japan for Japanese royaltiesliving and sleeping roomschanging room silver-plated doorindoor onsen for royalities’ usage onlyDragon head – symbol of royalties
Took city tram to Okaido station and strolled in the Matsuyama covered shopping arcade which is much larger with more shops and eateries. Had coffee and cake and returned to hotel after 2 hours. Strolled in the fairly spacious hotel landscape garden with sakura trees, small streams amongst others before rain clouds slowly rolled in. Soaked in onsen for the last time before western dinner.
Botchan locomotivecity tram – oldcity tram – newHotel landscape gardengarden viewed from balconydistant Matsuyama Castle viewed from balconyHotel room where the Royalties stayedDogo onsen station
After checking out from hotel I returned car in Beppu opposite to the ferry terminal. Took a ferry to Yawatahama, Shikoku for the first time from Kyushu. Not many passengers were travelling on that ferry on April Fools’ Day. Inside the cabin it has two spacious floors for passengers to relax. While the ferry ride took nearly 3 hours, we had a nice long chat with a guy from Hawaii, who has been travelling from the Philippines to Taiwan prior to arriving at Kyushu/Beppu. Given one of his major interests is lighthouse, his plan was to pick up a car upon landing. We parted at the Yawatahama ferry pier waving goodbyes – little did we know we’d bump into each other later.
Had brief lunch in the pier restaurant then took JR express train to Matsuyama in less than 1 hour direct. Took city tram to Dogo onsen in less than 30 min.
wind farms along peninsula in SW Ehimeferry docking at Yawatahama portOzu castle surrounded by sakura Botchan Clock in Dogo onsen
Checked into historical onsen hotel Funaya for 2 nights. Strolled around Dogo onsen spots briefly before soaking in onsen.
On the last Sunday in March when we checked out sakura blossom around the onsen hotel reached peak after two fairly warm days of up to 26C.
As it was early we did some grocery shopping in the new Aeon Mall with Daiso on 2F. Afterwards we visited a river dyke along which sakura trees were planted. Here sakura was also in peak blossom with Mt Yufu as an almost perfect backdrop. Lunch in a local soba shop.
Sanzai (mountain vege) soba, zaru-soba with wasabi (self-serving)
After lunch I drove to nearby Beppu via a mountainous road in order to arrive at Anraku-ji (安楽寺) for its famous sakura tree of over 150 years old. It’s a Shidarezakura tree whose branches span across the road. It was serene with a few visitors by cars/motorbike.
Along the way to Beppu onsen hotel, we dropped by local parks in Beppu where sakura and azaleas were also blooming.
Had stayed in Hotel Suginoi, Kankaiji onsen twice but this time we stayed in its newly opened Sora Kan (tower) with its own onsen and dining. Picked a modern and spacious western style room with view of Bay of Beppu from higher elevation. Thought dinner might be less crowded but it wasn’t. Next time we’d rather stay in Intercontinental, Kanawa onsen again with less commotion. This concluded our 7th stay in Beppu.
