Category Archives: Koyo

Koyo or Momiji is Japanese for fall foliage

JP 2019 Sep Koyo Ginsendai

On the next morning, headed up to Ginsendai after checking out from the Sounkyo onsen hotel. The temporary shuttle bus had much less passengers and after 35 min it arrived at the trailhead at over 1500m.

It was a cloudy day while sunlight pierced through clouds from time to time.  The trail leading up to Akadake was less muddy in the beginning though after 15 min it was in snow and puddles as in Kogen onsen. Further up the trail was narrower and completely covered in some form of hardened snow. Arrived at a viewing point where koyo could be viewed (unblocked by trees). Koyo had clearly past its peak in pale red as expected due to snow and higher elevations. Stayed for about 10 min and returned.

 

 

Tenninkyo / Hagaromo Falls (天人峡/羽衣の滝)

Returned to Sounkyo for brief lunch before noon. Drove to Tenninkyo about 100km away (3rd visit). Arrived at around 2pm+ and followed a flat trail of about 600m to Hagoromo falls. That trail had been closed for a few years due to landslides and was reopened recently.

In our 2nd visit 10 years ago the observation deck was at a higher and closer point where the Y-shaped falls could be seen in full. Sadly, the onsen hotel we stayed in 2004 had been closed.

 

 

While on the way to our onsen hotel in Furano, dropped by Biei before sunset for Daisetuszan, Mt Tokachi range on the distant horizon, Family trees and Ken & Mary tree.

 

 

New Prince Furano Hotel – 3rd stay and sumptuous western dinner course.

 

Returned car in Furano station on the next morning and took Chuo express bus back to Sapporo on another rainy day.

 

====>   Sapporo / Otaru   ====>

 

JP 2019 Sep Koyo Kogen onsen (Part 2)

Next we headed further up to Midori-numa (緑沼), another gorgeous koyo spot. As it was one of the few spots with wooden benches and where eating was permitted, it was full of hikers at nearly noon time.

 

 

Did not rest and continue uphill to Ezo-numa (エゾ沼). Koyo was less impressive than in our 1st visit in 2004.

 

 

Next was Shikibu-numa (式部沼) which was probably the most gorgeous pond of the day.

 

Arrived at Daigaku-numa (大学沼) whose resting area was entirely covered in snow and puddles. Took a brief rest and quickly consumed an onigiri where eating was also permitted. 

 

Spoke to park patrols on-duty and attempted further uphill to Kogen-numa but had to give up. That trail had become very slippery due to snow and mud all submerged beneath mountain streams. By then it was past 1pm, chilly at probably 5-6C and many hikers had returned. It was at the same location that wife and I had reached in 2004.

Upon descent took some quick snaps on some swamps such as Kamo-numa, Basho-numa etc.

 

Finally returned to the trailhead at almost 3:30pm.  Took the last shuttle bus (seated) back to the temporary parking lot. Drove back to the onsen hotel at around 5pm – exhausted though grateful.

 

** Lessons learned
Apart from proper mountain hiking gears including waterproof hiking shoes and trekking poles, renting waterproof plastic boots up to shin (on spot) might be a better solution to trails strewn with muddy puddles, mountain streams and possibly snow.

 

 

====>   Ginsendai   ====>

 

 

JP 2019 Sep Koyo Kogen onsen (Part 1)

It was a sunny day on the next morning and we had high hopes for koyo on our 3rd hike in Daisetsu Kogen onsen (大雪 高原温泉)  😎

Arrived at the temporary parking lot near Daisetsu dam before 9am and there were plenty of cars – it was the first day of a long weekend. Took the 9am bus (standing) uphill and attended a mandatory briefing in the Bear Information Centre (ヒグマ情報センター) – video in Japanese on trails/timings, bears, food and toilet arrangement etc.

Commenced hiking after 10am. Due to a mixture of mud, widespread puddles and snow along the trails the hike was slower and more demanding, while there were more hikers along the way than in our last two visits.

Reached the first pond – Tohyou-numa (土俵沼) at around 11:30. The pond surface had partially frozen to our surprise.

 

Skipped the next Bashou-numa (till descent) and headed up to Takimi-numa (滝見沼) immediately. Koyo was less impressive though covered in snow – also photogenic 🙂

 

===>  Kogen onsen (Part 2)  ===>

 

 

JP 2018 Koyo Biwako (Part 2)

Hikone Castle (彥根城)

another original castle of almost 400 years.  Visited on a national holiday with more crowds though fine.  Day temps dropped to less than 10C and drizzling at times.

Inside the castle, climbs along the wooden stairs  were steep – as in Himeji Castle.

 

 

Genkyu-en  (玄宮園)

a beautiful landscape garden attached to Hikone Castle – not to be missed if visiting the castle.

 

 

Had late lunch in shopping street close to castle. A udon shop had a fairly long line despite being close to 2pm. We chose the Aka-Oni (red ghost) udon served with famous local Omi-gyu (beef) in sukiyaki style – we were told to pour the entire hot soup onto the udon.  This was the first time we had udon served with beef (commonly served with vege, tempura etc). Though we had waited for about 30 min, it was totally worthy  😀

 

 

===>   Kinki   ====>

 

 

JP 2018 Koyo Biwako (Part 1)

From Kyoto, train to Omihachiman and picked up a rental car for a day to visit temples in Kotousanzan (湖東三山), literally the 3 mountains in Eastern Omi (Biwako).

Driving itin –   Omihachiman > Hyakusaiji > Kongorinji > Keisokuji > return car in Maibara (no drop-off charge)

Hyakusai-ji (湖東三山  百済寺)

Crowded but fine. Most were locals by bus tours. Followed uphill path to Hondo. Gorgeous koyo was around the pond. Spent about 1 hour+. 

 

 

Kongorin-ji  (湖東三山  金剛輪寺)

The most brilliant koyo of the day 😎 

More crowded with mostly locals – parking lots for private cars and tour buses were quite full, despite on a weekday. Uphill path to Hondo and 3-storey pagoda was much longer and steeper at points, though the rewards were immense – koyo corridors and blood-stained koyo 「血染めのもみじ」 awaiting !

 

 

Upon returning downhill, dropped by the landscape garden (close to entrance at the base) and koyo was not inferior.  Plenty of photographers aggregated around the pond and the blood-stained koyo.

Bonus – Jugatsu-zakura (October sakura) was also blooming 😆

Landscape garden

 

 

Keisoku-ji  (鶏足寺)

literally “chicken-feet” temple.  Attempted to visit in last Nov but had to turn back due to long line of cars not moving with no sight of nearby car parks whatsoever. 

Located in northern Omi-Nagahama so took nearly 1 hour from Kongorin-ji, even by expressway.  Staffs guided cars to a temporary unpaved parking lot (free of charge).  As it was close to 4:30pm, I rushed to it following signs and crowds walking in opposite direction.   Took about 20 min after some ups-and-downs, passing by farms on the way.

Renowned for carpet-like fallen leaves and indeed it was.  Hondo was closed but still worthy to visit.  Stayed for about 15 min and by the time I returned to the car park it was almost pitch dark.

 

 

====>   Part  2  ====>

 

JP 2018 Koyo Kyoto (Part 3)

Yoshimine-dera (善峯寺)

is located in the western mountains overlooking Kyoto city.  The temple ground is huge and plenty of temple buildings are scattered on the mountain.

From the bus stop there is a meandering steep climb before reaching the Sanmon – entrance gate.  Inside the temple ground, we followed the route and reached Yakushi-do in Okunoin. Nice views of Kyoto city in the distance, apart from peak koyo everywhere.

We spent about 2 hours and were grateful.  There were not many visitors though we had to return early to the bus stop to line up.  Apart from the locals, most were from Taiwan.

 

 

koyo highlights

 

Bishamon-do  (毘沙門堂)

After late lunch in Kyoto station, we headed to Yamashina by train in 5 min, took a taxi at the station and reached Bishamon-do in about 10 min.

The area opened to visitors were relatively small. Koyo was also at peak and not crowded. We spent less than 1 hour. 

 

 

 

Teppanyaki dinner in Granvia Kyoto hotel

ordered the same seafood and beef course as in last Nov 😀 

 

 

===>   Biwako  ====>

 

JP 2018 Koyo Kyoto (Part 2)

Sagano Scenic Train ride (Torroko Train)

Managed to book this highly popular scenic train ride from Arashiyama to Kameoka 1 month in advance.

The train station was filled with visitors – most were in tour groups. Apart from locals, the other majorities were from Taiwan, mainland China and Thailand.

While we were seated on the right, in the beginning the koyo scenes on the left bank of the Hozugawa (stream) were more photogenic.

 

 

Arashiyama Park

headed up to the Observatory. Nice views of Arashiyama and Hozugawa.

 

 

Lunch in Kyo-Suiran

Suiran is a luxurious ryokan in Arashiyama – have not stayed though. Reserved for lunch and strolled around its garden with nice views of Hozugawa.

Lunch was delicious apart from nice service. The dining room was fully occupied.

A few days later this ryokan was featured in a local TV program, showing its Presidential Suite.

 

 

Myoshin-ji / Taizo-in  (妙心寺 / 退藏院)

Before calling it a day, we visited Taizo-in in Myoshin-ji, which is a large complex consisting of many subtemples.

Taizo-in is a relatively small landscape garden. However, it has rock gardens, mini-rapids, a pond and a hollowed bamboo for listening to water music from water droplets.  It was serene and we sat down for 15 min before leaving.

 

 

===>   Part 3   ===>

 

JP 2018 Koyo Kyoto (Part 1)

Back in Kyoto – 3 years in a row in late November for peak koyo.  Picked some nice spots with much less crowds.

D1 – Shinnyodo

D2 – Sagano Scenic Train (Torroko train ride) > Arashiyama Park > Myoshin-ji / Taizo-in

D3 – Yoshimine-dera > Bishamon-do

 

Shinnyodo  (真如堂)

 

 

Tetsugaku-no-michi – the Philosopher’s path

dropped by it across the road from Shinnyodo to remember those days when we first visited Kyoto for koyo 18 years ago.

 

 

Winter Illuminations

Back in our fav hotel in Kyoto facing the lit-up Kyoto Tower and Higashi Honganji in the distance. 

Had first dinner in our fav Izakaya near Kyoto station.

 

===>   Part 2  ====>

 

JP 2018 Koyo Nara

It was a sunny day on next morning. Took Kintetsu rapid commuter train to Nara from Osaka.  Walked to Ukimido while passing through the Nara Park.

Nara Park – Ukimido (浮見堂)

 

Lunch in local restaurant outside Todaiji (2nd time) serving local beef. I ordered the Hitsumabushi style.

 

Yoshiki-en  (吉城園)

Surprise visit – while heading towards Isuien, we dropped by this garden entrance. Upon enquiry, entrance fee was waived for foreigners. The landscape garden was quite large and we stayed there for 1 hour+.

It used to be  privately owned, subsequently acquired by the Nara Government and opened to public.

 

Kofuku-ji – Chuo Kondo (興福寺 中金堂)

On our way back to Kintetsu Nara station, dropped by the Chuo Kondo (Central Golden Hall) which has reopened since Oct 2018.

 

===>  Kyoto  ===>

 

JP 2018 Koyo Kobe

Visited the Kobe City Arboretum (神戸市立森林植物園) while heading back to Osaka.  Noticed from the local koyo report that it had reached peak while we were in Takamatsu.

As it was on a Friday afternoon, the crowd was not huge though the queue for the free shuttle bus to nearest Kobe-Dentetsu train station was quite long.  Stayed for 1hour+.

 

 

  • Cross-section of Giant Sequoia in the visitor centre
  • Japanese Antelope of 27 years old

 

===>  Nara  ====>