Stayed in Osaka/Umeda overnight after landing in KIX. On next morning took JR express train to Sanda, Hyogo Prefecture (40 min direct) and picked up a rental car. Dropped by Kogen-ji along the way to Sannin area.
Took about an hour to arrive at Kogen-ji along national roads. Picked this temple to catch its Tenmoku maple (天目かえで), which was said to be brought back from Mt Tenmu, Hanzhou (China) by its founding master monk where he was trained. The Tenmoku maple is characterized by smaller leaves and drooping branches.
Koyo was past peak when viewed from behind the 3-storey pagoda, let alone with plenty of falling leaves when stepping onto the temple ground. There were not many visitors on a normal weekday and we stayed for around 1 hour.
3-storey pagodalikely Tenmoku maple in close-up
Kinosaki onsen (城崎温泉)
Arrived at Kinosaki onsen town and took ropeway uphill. Nice views with peak koyo. Returned to onsen town and strolled around before checking into onsen hotel.
On top of the Kinosaki ropeway station
tombstone for kani (crab)
Had a sumptuous crab and beef dinner course in onsen hotel. One whole seasonal crab was served for each person with servings including steamed, grilled etc. Dinner commenced from 18:30 and it took well over 2 hours to finish – almost a record !
Took a stroll at dusk for night views as well as to help digestion. Luckily it was chilly though w/o strong wind. While there are several public onsen houses with free entry for staying customers, we did not bother but content with the rotenburo inside onsen hotel that we stay as usual.
Full crab and beef courseserene night views
On next morning had breakfast and strolled around before checking out.
view from hotel roomhuge Atago-nashi (pear)bun filled with Tajima-gyu (beef)
Checked into an onsen hotel for 3n overlooking Biwako from Moriyama city along the eastern lake rim. On the next day visited Chojyu-ji (湖南三山 長壽寺), literally meaning longevity. It has been worshipped by locals for safe delivery, healthy upbringing of kids apart from praying for long lives. The temple is a national treasure and has been founded more than 1200 years ago during the Heian-era.
It was serene. Koyo was absolutely stunning and with sparse visitors we stayed for 1+ hour.
National Treasure Chojyu-ji山号 阿星山 “Ashosan” Hakusan Jinja
For lunch we headed to nearby Morishima main shop in Omihachiman again since 2022, though we decided to try the western-style grilled Omi-gyu (beef) this time 🙂 It was delicious and highly recommended.
MorishimaOmi-gyu (beef)
On the last day in Biwako we visited the Konomiya Jinja (胡宮神社) uphill of Hikone city. It was serene with infrequent visitors. Stayed for roughly an hour and headed into the old shopping street in Hikone city looking for the delicious and unique beef soup noodles that we had prior to covid years. Unfortunately, it was closed on that day and we had lunch in another local eatery.
After lunch drove to outlet in Ryuoo for shopping and coffee before returning to hotel.
Konomiya Jinja
On the next day we checked out from Biwako onsen hotel, returned car in Katata and returned to Osaka/Namba by public transports. Stayed for another 3n before departure.
Spacious room overlooking Biwakoroom with ensuite onsenX’mas tree in the hotel lobbybridge crossing Biwako and connecting to Katata
In Namba we stayed in Nankai Swisshotel, which we used to stay some 10 years ago. We picked a more spacious room with views of Namba Parks and Tennoji etc. On the next day we visited a local Oden shop in Kobe city, introduced by a local TV program aired in this trip. Arrived at the shop during lunch time and it was fully seated by locals. Ordered Oden-lunch sets plus add-on items which were all inexpensive and delicious.
room overlooking Namba Parks and Tennojinight view of Namba Parksindoor swimming poolOden shop in Kobe cityNankai Rapi:t train
With nice and warm memories after 13 days we departed Kansai.
Overnight it had been raining though luckily when we checked out rain had stopped briefly until we’re on the airport limo bus en route to the Matsuyama airport. Airline checkin was brief and easy and so we had more than an hour to stroll around the shops and had a casual lunch before security. While we’re waiting rain became downpours with thunderstorms – bad sign! All the while the departure time / gate was missing for our flight to Fukuoka while most other domestic flights were not affected. re the local announcement it was due to the same thunderstorm affecting flights from Fukuoka. Our almost full plane was delayed for 1 hour and it was a fairly bumpy ride. Over the entire trip of less than 1 hour we hardly saw anything outside except clouds and rain until the last 5 min before landing when we finally caught sight of the city below. Thank God it touched down smoothly. Checked into a hotel opposite to the Hakata station in less than 30 min by city subway direct.
On next morning rain had stopped though it was cloudy. Visited the Fukuoka castle ruins / Maizuru park (2nd time) where sakura was at peak blossom (was late for several days). It was one of the highlights in this trip. Though it was a normal weekday it was fairly crowded. We stayed for about 2 hours.
Fukuoka Castle ruins / Maizuru Park
Upon return we strolled along the Ohori park with plenty of food stalls opening for business. Had unagi-don for lunch in Hitsumabushi style, paired with famous sake also from Aichi Prefecture in Nakasu. Afterwards strolled to Canal city had coffee/cake before returning to hotel.
On the next day we went for shopping. Overall had some delicious yet inexpensive meals in the dining floors of AMU Plaza on top of Hakata station. Also discovered a local coffee house serving coffee from Americas, Africa, Oceania before we left. It was a nice finale :))
food stalls in Ohori ParkUnagi-don shop in NakasuCanal cityhappy hour in airside lounge
On next morning after having breakfast we visited the Matsuyama Castle – 1 of 12 original castles in Japan. The castle is located on a mount about 100m+, served by a ropeway and chairlift on the side. We took the chairlift – first time of all our castle visits in Japan so far and commenced hiking up to the entrance of Honmaru (the Main Keep).
Inside the Main Keep there were several wings. All visitors had to follow a route heading up and down via narrow wooden stairs. There were plenty of artifacts and exhibits about the history of the castle, weapons, swords, armours used by samurai, shoguns etc.
Sakura was blooming at 50%, with early-blooming varieties such as Oshima, Youkou (literally sunlight) in peak blossom.
ascending via chairliftup to Honmarulocal kids on outingviews from the top floorOshima-zakuraYoukou-zakura
Ishitei-ji (石手寺)
After enjoying a Yuzu-taste ice-cream (in orange) and resting for a while, we descended back to the street level and waited for a route bus to Ishitei-ji. While we’re waiting I spotted the Hawaiian guy in his sunglasses whom we met the day before on the ferry. He had also finished visiting the castle – what a coincidence! We chatted briefly but we had to part again when the route bus arrived.
It took about 15 min to arrive at the temple.
Ishitei-ji (literally means stone hand temple) is temple number 51 along the 88 temples on the Shikoku Pilgrimage. This was the first temple we visited in Ehime Prefecture. Walking through a covered approach there were shops selling buddhist related artifacts though only a few were open. After entering via the Niomon the temple ground was filled with multiple halls and a 3-storey pagoda. On the left there’s another entrance where a long tunnel inside a cave was supposed to lead to an inner temple. We followed through it where some bats were flying along eerily. After about 5 min we emerged from the cave where there’s a mountain road though there was nothing resembling any temple infrastructure was in sight except for long grasses and forests. Feeling a bit disappointed we descended via the mountain road back to the main hall and left.
Niomonentrance to inner templelong tunnelDaishi-do (main hall)
Back to Dogo onsen we went for lunch in the shopping arcade. Ordered two Tai-meshi lunch sets which is famous locally. We like Tai (sea bream) sashimi anyway and the sets were delicious. Afterwards we strolled around the shopping arcade until it’s time for our reserved timeslot to visit the Dogo onsen Honkan restricted rooms where this is the only onsen in Japan the Japanese Emperor and Royalties stayed for onsen.
It was a small group of 7 people including the two of us led by a local lady speaking in English. She showed the Yushinden (gate) entrance where only Japanese Royalties could use. Indoor we were guided along narrow corridors outside the living/bedroom (without stepping in) with detail explanations about the architecture, symbols and usage. The indoor onsen room for soaking is in the basement with an adjacent changing room and a small Japanese garden. It lasted for about 30 min and the lady was very friendly responding to our questions as well as taking photos for us. This local tour is highly recommended.
Tai-meshi lunch setsoutside Asuka-no-yu where kids were running around small water jetsDogo onsen Honkan entrance for Japanese royalitiesYushinden – the only onsen in Japan for Japanese royaltiesliving and sleeping roomschanging room silver-plated doorindoor onsen for royalities’ usage onlyDragon head – symbol of royalties
Took city tram to Okaido station and strolled in the Matsuyama covered shopping arcade which is much larger with more shops and eateries. Had coffee and cake and returned to hotel after 2 hours. Strolled in the fairly spacious hotel landscape garden with sakura trees, small streams amongst others before rain clouds slowly rolled in. Soaked in onsen for the last time before western dinner.
Botchan locomotivecity tram – oldcity tram – newHotel landscape gardengarden viewed from balconydistant Matsuyama Castle viewed from balconyHotel room where the Royalties stayedDogo onsen station
After checking out from hotel I returned car in Beppu opposite to the ferry terminal. Took a ferry to Yawatahama, Shikoku for the first time from Kyushu. Not many passengers were travelling on that ferry on April Fools’ Day. Inside the cabin it has two spacious floors for passengers to relax. While the ferry ride took nearly 3 hours, we had a nice long chat with a guy from Hawaii, who has been travelling from the Philippines to Taiwan prior to arriving at Kyushu/Beppu. Given one of his major interests is lighthouse, his plan was to pick up a car upon landing. We parted at the Yawatahama ferry pier waving goodbyes – little did we know we’d bump into each other later.
Had brief lunch in the pier restaurant then took JR express train to Matsuyama in less than 1 hour direct. Took city tram to Dogo onsen in less than 30 min.
wind farms along peninsula in SW Ehimeferry docking at Yawatahama portOzu castle surrounded by sakura Botchan Clock in Dogo onsen
Checked into historical onsen hotel Funaya for 2 nights. Strolled around Dogo onsen spots briefly before soaking in onsen.
When we arrived at Yufuin it was after 2pm. While we had expected the town to be crowded it’s beyond our expectations on a Friday that it was like in some kind of long holidays – many cars were roaming around apart from crowds.
After parking the car nearby we dashed to Snoopy Cafe (that we had visited twice prior to covid) expecting a long queue but it turned out it had moved to a new location closer to Kinrin-ko. Due to immense crowds along the main shopping avenue we decided to have coffee right away.
Checked into onsen hotel for 2 nights – our 5th stay in Yufuin. Picked this hotel as it served western meals – time for a break. It was surrounded by a forest on the hillside with sakura blooming at about 50%. The shared rotenburo was not that spacious so after soaking in it we reserved a slot in its private rotenburo (first-come-first-served in 3 discrete huts) on next morning. Dinner and breakfast were sumptuous and delicious. It was full house in the dining hall.
steamed eggfishtender local wagyubreakfast
After breakfast on next morning we headed to Nagayu onsen Shidarezakura-no-sato 「長湯温泉しだれ桜の里」. It took roughly an hour via national roads. It occupies a huge area with over 2,500 sakura trees re its official website with Kuju mountains as backdrop. While some early-blooming sakura varieties were in full bloom, others have just started blooming at 10%. Apart from temporary food stalls, live performance with a lady singing old hits accompanied by a saxophone, including いい日旅立ち (“good day to start travelling”). We enjoyed it under the warm sun with light breeze at around 25C. Stayed there for about 90 min and left for lunch.
Kuju Mountain rangelive music
Drove to nearby Nagayu onsen town in 10-15 min. Strolled around it including the public bathhouse. re the local board the onsen is carbonated, good for drinking and possess healing properties. However, it had a strong metallic taste – not so palatable to me.
Dropped into a local family-run shokudo ordered udon and yaki-soba for casual lunch. Menu items were inexpensive overall.
Returned to Yufuin and checked into a local small coffee house with nice internal decor playing jazz music. Apart from us only one table was occupied by a local family. We’d definitely return to this serene coffee house next time in Yufuin.
Nagayu onsenpublic bathhouselarge Tsubaki flowers on treespelted on the groundinside the shokudosmall coffee house in Yufuindelicious desserts
Dinner in an Italian restaurant – our 2nd visit since Jan 2020. There were more customers so this time our table was not facing Mt Yufu. Dinner was sumptuous and delicious.
Italian restaurant in Yufuinappetiser with uni on topAsparagus with Prosciutto, cheesesquid ink pasta with Hotaru-ikaBarramundi fish filletlocal buta (pork)two types of Kyushu beef – Bungyo, Miyazakidessert with local strawberries
After checking out from Kikuka onsen ryokan we dropped by the Kikuchi Castle ruins. It was a sunny day after the frontal rain band had moved on overnight.
The staffs in the information centre were very friendly and invited us to watch a video (narrated in English) of about 20 min. The huge ancient hill fort was built some 1300 years ago for defense. While there are other reconstructed buildings such as army barracks, weapons storehouse, observatory etc, those are spread out in the mountains which we have not visited.
Kikuchi Castle ruins
Historical park – Kikuchi castleLeft – reconstructed rice storehouseReconstructed octagonal drum towerwooden beams inside the towerKorou-kun
Kikuchi Koen
Next we dropped by Kikuchi Koen (Park) for about 30 min where sakura was in blossom (about 30%).
Kikuchi gorge
From the nearest parking lot (about 200m slightly downhill) we followed the smallest loop mentioned in the pamphlet picked up in the tourist information centre. While it had rained heavily the day before the uphill trails on the left were not difficult. It took about 40 min to complete the smallest loop and returned to the entrance. While we spotted a few visitors at the entrance taking photos we bumped into a few travellers along the trail on that sunny day.
Next we headed to Yufuin. Ascended via mountainous roads in Kuju Kogen and dropped by a soba shop for lunch. The soba was hand-made locally and delicious. While we were enjoying it more locals dropped in and they had to wait for empty tables. After checking the bill we headed to Yufuin via expressway.
On next morning we checked out after having sumptuous buffet breakfast. Drizzles started to turn into heavy rain. Drove inland and arrived at Ogi Park – a top 100 sakura spot in less than 1 hour. Though there were plenty of temporary food stalls (during sakura season) along both sides of the entrance, only a few were open.
Ogi Park
Strolled around the huge park with a jinja on top of a low mount where more sakura trees were in bloom (about 30%). Not many visitors were around on that rainy weekday. We did not stay for long and headed to Saga city for lunch.
300-year old conifer pruned into a cube
Arrived at the famous Saga-gyu place but it was full with a long list of names in line. With about 1 hour of waiting time we decided to lunch in a nearby local restaurant (modern shokudo) with set lunches at unbelievably low prices (less than JPY1k each).
Yanagawa
Then we dropped by Yanagawa where we had visited before. Bumped into the Yanagawa Hina Festival 2024 (towards the end) where unique hanging decorations known as “Sagemon” were featured though ringfenced. Strolled for an hour and had a coffee in a quaint shop along the canal.
30th Anniversary of Sagemon FestivalHad dined in a historical unagi-don place on the other side of the canal
Yamaga
Next I drove to Yamaga onsen-go for the first time in northern Kumamoto Prefecture. Stopped at the visitor center with public bathhouse next door. Thanks to a brief explanation by the friendly local staff then we realized there are 5 onsen villages around Yamaga onsen-go, where we would stay in one of those. Yamaga in Kanji literally means “mountain deer”.
It’d be interesting to watch ladies with a “Toro” (lantern) tied onto their heads during the Yamaga Toro Matsuri (Lantern Festival) in mid-August.
Yamaga onsen – Sakura-yu public onsenkoyo (red leaves). In the poster a lady with a lantern tied onto her head was playing table tennisPoster – Yamaga Toro Matsuri (lantern festival on 15-16th Aug)poster titled as “Kumamoto Yamaga”, with a bear (symbol of Kumamoto) and deerslocal museumdragon carved on wooden plank Kuma with lantern in Ashiyu (foot onsen)
Kikuka onsen ryokan
In fairly heavy rain we arrived at our onsen ryokan in Kikuka onsen (“chrysanthemum deer”). After quickly unpacking we dashed for onsen, where the furos were surrounded by wooden beams in traditional style. Onsen was slightly alkaline while minerals were apparently deposited around wooden beams and stone paved floors, thus making the latter slippery. The serene rotenburo has a nice view on a small mount.
Dinner was sumptuous and delicious. It paired well with a local sake. After dinner, drinks in the lounge were free for consumption, including alcoholic. The whiskey was ok.
free alcohol bar lantern used in Yamaga Lantern Festivalbrekie
It was a nice sunny day on the road. First we dropped by two terraced fields along the way before arriving at the peninsula nearby Karatsu.
Lunch in road station nearby the Nagoya castle ruins (名護屋城跡) – not to be mistaken with Nagoya city, Aichi Prefecture.
Nanatsugama (七ツ釜)
Visited Nanatsugama (七ツ釜) literally “seven caves” along the coast before arriving at Karatsu. From the nearest parking lot it took about 20 min on foot via a few flights of stairs. Sea was in deep blue while waves were smashing against the tilted pillar rocks forming sea caves – of which there were about six. Guess one was blocked from our viewpoint. Upon return we discovered an easier short cut without stairs sloping downhill. From April sightseeing boat tours are available though subject to weather conditions.
Stoned lion-head outside of JR Karatsu station
Karatsu Seaside Hotel
Arrived at Karatsu Seaside Hotel, where we stayed 11 years ago. However, this time we stayed in the new East wing with its own onsen and dining place. Stayed in its luxury twin bedroom of 62 sqm with balcony on high floors with sea view. Our room was equipped with a coffee machine and thus we had coffee with 2 pieces of delicious cakes – complimentary upon checkin from the lounge 🙂
Dashed downstairs to soak in onsen with a sea view rotenburo. It was windy outdoor while clouds were rolling in. While spa areas are available (for staying customers), we did not enter as swim wears are required. Though swim wears are available on rental we’re not comfortable with it. Besides, the outdoor pool (if opened) would be too cold to enjoy.
Dinner was in buffet style with good food – whole squid sashimi (typical in Karatsu) was made to order and delivered to our table, grilled beef was tender, not fatty and delicious. And so were the tempura items.
long sandy beach bathroom with sea viewKaratsu castle in the distance
