JP 2024 Mar Sakura Yufuin

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When we arrived at Yufuin it was after 2pm. While we had expected the town to be crowded it’s beyond our expectations on a Friday that it was like in some kind of long holidays – many cars were roaming around apart from crowds.

After parking the car nearby we dashed to Snoopy Cafe (that we had visited twice prior to covid) expecting a long queue but it turned out it had moved to a new location closer to Kinrin-ko. Due to immense crowds along the main shopping avenue we decided to have coffee right away.

Checked into onsen hotel for 2 nights – our 5th stay in Yufuin. Picked this hotel as it served western meals – time for a break. It was surrounded by a forest on the hillside with sakura blooming at about 50%. The shared rotenburo was not that spacious so after soaking in it we reserved a slot in its private rotenburo (first-come-first-served in 3 discrete huts) on next morning. Dinner and breakfast were sumptuous and delicious. It was full house in the dining hall.

After breakfast on next morning we headed to Nagayu onsen Shidarezakura-no-sato 「長湯温泉しだれ桜の里」. It took roughly an hour via national roads. It occupies a huge area with over 2,500 sakura trees re its official website with Kuju mountains as backdrop. While some early-blooming sakura varieties were in full bloom, others have just started blooming at 10%. Apart from temporary food stalls, live performance with a lady singing old hits accompanied by a saxophone, including いい日旅立ち (“good day to start travelling”). We enjoyed it under the warm sun with light breeze at around 25C. Stayed there for about 90 min and left for lunch.

Drove to nearby Nagayu onsen town in 10-15 min. Strolled around it including the public bathhouse. re the local board the onsen is carbonated, good for drinking and possess healing properties. However, it had a strong metallic taste – not so palatable to me.

Dropped into a local family-run shokudo ordered udon and yaki-soba for casual lunch. Menu items were inexpensive overall.

Returned to Yufuin and checked into a local small coffee house with nice internal decor playing jazz music. Apart from us only one table was occupied by a local family. We’d definitely return to this serene coffee house next time in Yufuin.

Dinner in an Italian restaurant – our 2nd visit since Jan 2020. There were more customers so this time our table was not facing Mt Yufu. Dinner was sumptuous and delicious.

==========> Beppu ===========>

Sakura, Sightseeing

JP 2024 Mar Sakura Kikuchi

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After checking out from Kikuka onsen ryokan we dropped by the Kikuchi Castle ruins. It was a sunny day after the frontal rain band had moved on overnight.

The staffs in the information centre were very friendly and invited us to watch a video (narrated in English) of about 20 min. The huge ancient hill fort was built some 1300 years ago for defense. While there are other reconstructed buildings such as army barracks, weapons storehouse, observatory etc, those are spread out in the mountains which we have not visited.

Kikuchi Castle ruins

Kikuchi Koen

Next we dropped by Kikuchi Koen (Park) for about 30 min where sakura was in blossom (about 30%).

Kikuchi gorge

From the nearest parking lot (about 200m slightly downhill) we followed the smallest loop mentioned in the pamphlet picked up in the tourist information centre. While it had rained heavily the day before the uphill trails on the left were not difficult. It took about 40 min to complete the smallest loop and returned to the entrance. While we spotted a few visitors at the entrance taking photos we bumped into a few travellers along the trail on that sunny day.

Next we headed to Yufuin. Ascended via mountainous roads in Kuju Kogen and dropped by a soba shop for lunch. The soba was hand-made locally and delicious. While we were enjoying it more locals dropped in and they had to wait for empty tables. After checking the bill we headed to Yufuin via expressway.

============> Yufuin ============>

Sakura, Sightseeing

JP 2024 Mar Sakura Yamaga

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On next morning we checked out after having sumptuous buffet breakfast. Drizzles started to turn into heavy rain. Drove inland and arrived at Ogi Park – a top 100 sakura spot in less than 1 hour. Though there were plenty of temporary food stalls (during sakura season) along both sides of the entrance, only a few were open.

Ogi Park

Strolled around the huge park with a jinja on top of a low mount where more sakura trees were in bloom (about 30%). Not many visitors were around on that rainy weekday. We did not stay for long and headed to Saga city for lunch.

Arrived at the famous Saga-gyu place but it was full with a long list of names in line. With about 1 hour of waiting time we decided to lunch in a nearby local restaurant (modern shokudo) with set lunches at unbelievably low prices (less than JPY1k each).

Yanagawa

Then we dropped by Yanagawa where we had visited before. Bumped into the Yanagawa Hina Festival 2024 (towards the end) where unique hanging decorations known as “Sagemon” were featured though ringfenced. Strolled for an hour and had a coffee in a quaint shop along the canal.

Yamaga

Next I drove to Yamaga onsen-go for the first time in northern Kumamoto Prefecture. Stopped at the visitor center with public bathhouse next door. Thanks to a brief explanation by the friendly local staff then we realized there are 5 onsen villages around Yamaga onsen-go, where we would stay in one of those. Yamaga in Kanji literally means “mountain deer”.

It’d be interesting to watch ladies with a “Toro” (lantern) tied onto their heads during the Yamaga Toro Matsuri (Lantern Festival) in mid-August.

Kikuka onsen ryokan

In fairly heavy rain we arrived at our onsen ryokan in Kikuka onsen (“chrysanthemum deer”). After quickly unpacking we dashed for onsen, where the furos were surrounded by wooden beams in traditional style. Onsen was slightly alkaline while minerals were apparently deposited around wooden beams and stone paved floors, thus making the latter slippery. The serene rotenburo has a nice view on a small mount.

Dinner was sumptuous and delicious. It paired well with a local sake. After dinner, drinks in the lounge were free for consumption, including alcoholic. The whiskey was ok.

==========> Kikuchi ===========>

Sightseeing

JP 2024 Mar Sakura Karatsu

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It was a nice sunny day on the road. First we dropped by two terraced fields along the way before arriving at the peninsula nearby Karatsu.

Lunch in road station nearby the Nagoya castle ruins (名護屋城跡) – not to be mistaken with Nagoya city, Aichi Prefecture.

Nanatsugama (七ツ釜)

Visited Nanatsugama (七ツ釜) literally “seven caves” along the coast before arriving at Karatsu. From the nearest parking lot it took about 20 min on foot via a few flights of stairs. Sea was in deep blue while waves were smashing against the tilted pillar rocks forming sea caves – of which there were about six. Guess one was blocked from our viewpoint. Upon return we discovered an easier short cut without stairs sloping downhill. From April sightseeing boat tours are available though subject to weather conditions.

Stoned lion-head outside of JR Karatsu station

Karatsu Seaside Hotel

Arrived at Karatsu Seaside Hotel, where we stayed 11 years ago. However, this time we stayed in the new East wing with its own onsen and dining place. Stayed in its luxury twin bedroom of 62 sqm with balcony on high floors with sea view. Our room was equipped with a coffee machine and thus we had coffee with 2 pieces of delicious cakes – complimentary upon checkin from the lounge 🙂

Dashed downstairs to soak in onsen with a sea view rotenburo. It was windy outdoor while clouds were rolling in. While spa areas are available (for staying customers), we did not enter as swim wears are required. Though swim wears are available on rental we’re not comfortable with it. Besides, the outdoor pool (if opened) would be too cold to enjoy.

Dinner was in buffet style with good food – whole squid sashimi (typical in Karatsu) was made to order and delivered to our table, grilled beef was tender, not fatty and delicious. And so were the tempura items.

===========> Yamaga ==========>

Sakura

JP 2024 Mar Sakura Saga

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Embarked on a visit to Kyushu again (7th time) in end March (since Jan 2020). Re-visited Northern Kyushu for 10 days and took ferry to Shikoku for the first time to stay in Dogo onsen, Matsuyama for 2 days. While sakura peak blossom dates have been fickler for the last few years, this trip is more for enjoying onsen, scenery, relaxing and catching sakura blossom if any along the way. And hopefully there are less crowds.

Overall itin – Takeo onsen > Karatsu > Yamaga onsen-go > Yufuin (2n) > Beppu > Matsuyama (2n) > Fukuoka (3n)

After landing in Fukuoka, took JR express train from Hakata to Takeo onsen in 1 hour direct. It has been drizzling on the way but luckily rain had stopped prior to our arrival. Took hotel shuttle bus to onsen hotel.

Mifuneyama Rakuen Hotel

It was our 2nd stay since Jan 2020. If we had not stayed before we would have been surprised entering the reception area – in darkness except being lit up by lamps akin to those in teamLabs! The other displays in larger rooms did not exist 4 years ago.

After dropping our bags in the room, we took a stroll around for the newly added displays apart from the outdoor park before sunset. Sakura was in its initial bloom about 10-20% – our first shot in this trip :))

Dashed for onsen before dinner at 7pm – so soothing 🙂 While the bathing and onsen areas remain the same as previously, new premises have been added in the huge rotenburo area. On one side there’s a tower for sauna and another tower on top of the robenburo has indoor relaxation on 2 levels, with reclining chairs, refreshments and snacks provided. Being a bit hungry after soaking in onsen, I grabbed some cold drinks to keep hydrated apart from having warabi mochi – my fav 🙂 A few males were grilling mash mellows over a furnace with slowly burning charcoal. Plenty of them were still enjoying in the onsen area when I left after 30 min.

Dinner was in traditional courses which was sumptuous using local vege, fish, beef, pork. Everything was fresh and delicious. Finished around 8:30pm and strolled for a while to help digestion. Retired early in room as we’re tired after catching early am flight from HKG to FUK and travelled all the way here.

Waked up early next am for one last onsen before breakfast at 8am with so many people around, despite on weekdays and most were young, either in couples or families. While all were familiar with self-service salad, toast and coffee bars, most were wondering around a charcoal furnace for grilling nana-senchi (7cm in Kanji), apparently made from fried-tofu in thin slices packed together like a square bread roll. It was so tasty when served with a warm bowl of miso-jiru (soup).

Before checking out we headed slightly downhill for the Rakuen, whose entrance fees were waived for staying customers. There were more sakura trees around the small pond with Mifuneyama as backdrop. Stayed for about 30 min and by the time we left tour groups were rolling in. Took hotel shuttle bus back to station and picked up rental car.

==============> Karatsu ==============>

Sightseeing

JP 2023 Aug JP Alps (Part 2)

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On the next morning checked out from Hirayu onsen ryokan and drove to Myoko Kogen via Matsumoto. First dropped by the Hirayu folk museum, followed by the Daio Wasabi farm in the outskirts of Matsumoto.

Wasabi has to be grown in shaded areas within a certain temperature range – not too cold nor hot. The farm is huge and was featured in the movie “Dreams” by Kurosawa Akira in 1990.

Arrived at Nojiri-ko, Niigata Prefecture and had Italian lunch at the lake rim. Though it was a hot day, the light breeze was very much welcomed. Afterwards, we visited the Nojiri Naumann Elephant Museum which contains prehistoric fossils of animals including Mammoth Elephant, giant deers, which roamed the Earth 28K years ago. The fossils were excavated around Nojiri-ko.

Myoko Kogen

Before hotel checkin we drove uphill to Naena falls (苗名滝), listed as one of top 100 waterfalls in Japan. Hiked for about 25 min. It was our second visit.

On the next morning after checkout, we dropped by Imori-ike with nice view of Mt Myoko as backdrop. The small pond was full of lotus flowers in full blossom.

Dropped by Kagami-ike (“Mirror pond”) in Togakushi briefly while returning to Nagano city. In latter, dropped by Zenko-ji again to have a glimpse of a stolen but recovered wooden Buddha statue, which is believed to possess healing power to whomever has touched it.

When we were in Japan in Dec 2022, it was reported in the local news that it was recovered in Kyushu after being stolen.

Had lunch in Nagano city and took Shinkansen back to Tokyo afterwards, where we stayed for 2 more days before returning to Hong Kong.

T H E E N D

Sightseeing

JP 2023 Aug JP Alps (Part 1)

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Seldom do we visit Japan in summer. However, due to a request from my in-law we visited Japan in 1 week in late Aug, with a few days in the northern Japanese Alps to stay away from extreme heat and humidity as much as possible.

After arriving at Tokyo/HND, collected reserved seat train tickets via the automated ticket machines in HND for the next day and checked in Shinjuku hotel.

On the next morning took the JR Azusa express train to Matsumoto direct in less than 3 hours. Picked up rental car after lunch and drove uphill to Norikura Kogen at 1500m in about 1 hour via R158.

Norikura Kogen @1500m

It was cooler up there at about 25C and we strolled to the first spot Ushidome-ike (牛留池) in about 10 min (from the nearest parking lot). Stayed for 10 min and drove to Zengoro falls (善五郎の滝). This time it took about 25 min descending downhill to the viewpoint.

This was my third visit in Norikura Kogen though first time to these spots, where there were a few visitors. In previous visits the focus was on Mt Norikura/Tatami-daira above 2700m+. This time it was shrouded in clouds and could not be viewed. Drove to Hirayu onsen where we stayed for 2n.

Kamikochi @1500m+

On next morning we visited Kamikochi (K) by Alpico bus from the nearby Hirayu bus terminal – no private car is allowed into K. Although the line was long we were onboard the bus in about 10 min as Alpico kept on ferrying pax with empty buses. After 30 min, we alighted at Taisho-ike before 10am at 24C and commenced our walk to Kappa-bashi along the Azusa stream (6th time), though first time for my in-law.

Though the former viewpoint in Taisho-ike was flooded and inaccessible, this alternate viewpoint offered good views of the Mt Hotaka range with reflections.

Finally arrived at Kappa-bashi before 11:30am. It was crowded along the trails and very crowded in latter. Lined up for apple-taste ice-cream and strolled around souvenir shops. As clouds gathered and shrouded the Mt Hotaka summits we decided to drive to Takayama for lunch iso visiting Shin-hotaka.

Returned to Hirayu onsen by Alpico bus. Picked up car from onsen ryokan and drove to Takayama in about 45 min.

Takayama

Had lunch in a local shokudo for the third time. Ordered Hida-Takyama gyu (beef) again while there was a line for the takeaway Takayama-gyu sushi outdoor. Inside the restaurant there is a small compartment displaying costumes/artifacts used in the Takayama Festival.

After lunch we strolled around the old town (for the 4th time), where there were plenty of tourists. Had coffee before returning to Hirayu onsen ryokan. Dropped by Hirayu-Otaki (falls) of 64m.

Local sake whose name has been featured in Anime “Jutsutsu Kaisen”

==========> P A R T 2 ===========>

Sightseeing

JP 2023 April Omihachiman

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On next morning visited Nishiki market (in Kyoto) again which was very crowded. Dropped into a shop ordered grilled seafood and sake before lunch 🙂

Nishiki market

On the final day in Kyoto visited Omihachiman again for a day trip. It was filled with Spring ambience – totally different from our last visit 5 months earlier. New green shoots were everywhere along the canal area. Strolled around in the old town area before dropping into a local shop serving famous Omi-gyu (beef) lunch 🙂

Omihachiman

After lunch we strolled to the Hachiman Jinja where huge tall columns were raised preparing for the Hachiman Matsuri (Festival) in that weekend.

Had coffee time in the same cake shop before returning to Kyoto.

On the next day travelled back to Fukuoka by Shinkansen. Stayed in latter for o/n before departure.

T H E E N D

Sakura

JP 2023 April Sakura Uji

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On next morning visited Uji Botanical Garden. Apart from sakura, tulips, shibazakura, nanohana there were many other varieties. Spent more than 2 hours before returning to Kyoto.

Uji Botanical Garden

Lunch in our fav sushi restaurant beneath the Kyoto station again.

Coffee time in our fav local cafe – souffle pound cake with matcha, ice cream and red beans as toppings.

==========> Omihachiman ==========>

Sakura

JP 2023 April Sakura Kyoto

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Returned to Kyoto and stayed for 5 days. While the Somei Yoshino sakura has mostly finished, some late blooming varieties were in peak blossom. After dropping our luggage in the hotel, we headed westbound to the first site.

Umenomiya Taisha (梅宮大社)

It was a warm afternoon. Apart from sakura other flowers such as azaleas, tsubaki (camelia), suzuran were in bloom.

On the next morning we visited Hirano Jinja again, which is also famous for late bloomers. Some locals were dressed up in ancient costumes preparing for rituals.