All posts by DLihk

JP 2019 Sep Koyo Kogen onsen (Part 1)

It was a sunny day on the next morning and we had high hopes for koyo on our 3rd hike in Daisetsu Kogen onsen (大雪 高原温泉)  😎

Arrived at the temporary parking lot near Daisetsu dam before 9am and there were plenty of cars – it was the first day of a long weekend. Took the 9am bus (standing) uphill and attended a mandatory briefing in the Bear Information Centre (ヒグマ情報センター) – video in Japanese on trails/timings, bears, food and toilet arrangement etc.

Commenced hiking after 10am. Due to a mixture of mud, widespread puddles and snow along the trails the hike was slower and more demanding, while there were more hikers along the way than in our last two visits.

Reached the first pond – Tohyou-numa (土俵沼) at around 11:30. The pond surface had partially frozen to our surprise.

 

Skipped the next Bashou-numa (till descent) and headed up to Takimi-numa (滝見沼) immediately. Koyo was less impressive though covered in snow – also photogenic 🙂

 

===>  Kogen onsen (Part 2)  ===>

 

 

JP 2019 Sep Koyo Sounkyo

On the next morning, first snow (in Japan) was reported on Kurodake during the morning Hokkaido TV news where 5cm snow had accumulated in the mountain hut at over 1900m on 19th Sept.

 

In Asahidake, the situation was also disappointing – not only was it foggy/misty from the live webcam, the ropeway operation was suspended due to strong wind. Even the hotel concierge felt sorry for us and others.  Well, that is mountain weather.

After checking out, we drove to Sounkyo onsen  (over 100km away)  where we’d stay for the next 2 nights. Our original plan was to visit Ginsendai – but then this wish was knocked down again as the temporary shuttle bus to Ginsendai had stopped running on that day due to snow. Ahhh  🙁 

 

On the way returning to Sounkyo for lunch, we dropped by Obako and the dual waterfalls briefly. Koyo usually reaches peak in early Oct at the bottom of the valley so we did not expect anything, though one of two trees up on the cliffs already showed some fiery colour.

 

After lunch, our wish to take the Kurodake ropeway was denied as the operation was suspended as well for the day. Thus, I drove along R273 to drop by Mikuni-toge (3 countries’ gap) and downhill to Nukabira-ko (糠平湖) for the first time.

The man-made lake was serene. We stayed there for about 40 min and headed back to Sounkyo onsen hotel for checkin and dinner.

 

====>  Kogen onsen   ====>

 

 

JP 2019 Sep Koyo Daisetsuzan

Our 3rd visit in Daisetsuzan for first koyo (fall foliage) in Japan. As the main goals of my plan was to cover Asahidake, Ginsendai and Kogen onsen, I have advanced this visit for a few days than in my first visit in Sept 2004.

After Daisetsuzan, we stayed in Furano overnight before returning to Sapporo. Upon landing in Sapporo/CTS, took Dohoku express bus to Asahikawa direct in 2 hours+.

Went to our favourite izakaya for dinner (5th time).

 

Picked up rental car on next morning. However, as rain was forecasted (due to a temperature cyclone moving in from Siberia), I diverted to Biei/Furano. It was already raining quite heavily on the way and by the time we arrived at Farm Tomita at around 11am, rain unexpectedly stopped and the sun showed up briefly.

The colourful flower fields looked gorgeous as usual.

 

After casual lunch, dropped by its dried flower shop again and headed to the Blue pond before rain clouds rolled in.

Had a coffee break and cakes in Cafe Ken & Mary in Biei before heading uphill to Asahidake onsen for overnight.

 

 

====>    Sounkyo   ====>

 

 

Yufuin Hanayoshi

3rd stay in Yufuin onsen.

Picked this luxurious onsen resort for spacious flat with ensuite onsen, and open deck for distant views of Mt Yufu.

 

 

Sumptuous Kaiseki dinner, professional service.

 

 

 

Yamabiko ryokan

2nd stay in Kurakawa onsen.

Picked this onsen ryokan for its famous and huge Senin rotenburo (onsen for fairies).  Kashikiri onsen (private use) is free though on a first-come-first-served basis.

 

 

Kaiseki dinner course. Service was less impressive.

 

 

 

JP 2019 May Uminonakamichi Seaside Park

Visited this public park for roses in a peninsula opposite to the bay from central Fukuoka.

It was quite a hot day close to 30C when we arrived at the train station, after 40 min by JR commuter train from Hakata with 1 change.

It took about 20 min on foot to reach one of the entrances to the huge park, and another 20 min to reach the rose gardens.

 

Spring flowers composing a colourful palette

 

As it was pretty hot, we stayed for about an hour+ and returned to Hakata.

 

It rained on the next day and thus it was cooler when we visited the Fukuoka Art Museum. Apart from the permanent exhibitions, there was a special exhibition – Flower Power by Yinka Shonibare CBE.

Photography is allowed in the public areas.

 

On the next day, we left Fukuoka and headed home with fond memories of Kyushu in Spring.

 

~~~~~~~~       T  H  E          E  N  D       ~~~~~~~~~

 

 

JP 2019 May Fukuoka

Stayed in Hakata for the final 3 nights in Fukuoka.

Visited Tocho-ji, Shofuku-ji and Joten-ji which are within 10 min on foot from our hotel.

Tocho-ji (東長寺)

Tochoji temple was founded in 806 by Kobo-daishi Kukai and it is the oldest temple of the Shingon sect in Japan that Kobo-daishi set up, after his return from China during the Tang Dynasty.

The Fukuoka Daibutsu is a wooden Buddha completed in 1993. It is inside a building on the 2F. Photography is not permitted. Except for the Daibutsu there is no entrance fee.

 

Shofuku-ji (聖福寺)

In less than 5 min, we arrived at the Shofuku-ji which is tucked inside a narrow street. It was serene with a few visitors.

It was founded in 1195 by the Zen master Yosai, who introduced Zen Buddhism and tea cultivation from China into Japan.

 

 

Joten-ji (承天寺)

As it was still early for lunch, we strolled around and bumped into this temple which happened to be the birthplace of Udon, Soba noodles and Manju buns in Japan. According to the monument, the recipes and the skill of milling were brought back by Shoichi Kokushi when he returned from China (during Sung dynasty) in 1241.

This temple was built in 1242. It is also located where the famous Gion Yamakasa Festival originated.

 

 

After a brief lunch, we headed to Uminonakamichi Seaside Park by JR commuter train.

 

===>  Uminonakamichi Seaside Park  ===>

 

 

JP 2019 May Yufuin

Our 4th visit and 3rd stay in this onsen town – one of our fav in Kyushu 🙂

Strolled along the main street, dropped by Ginrin-ko (featured photo) again. It was beautiful with new lush green though quite crowded with group tourists. Had a coffee break in Snoopy Cafe before heading to onsen resort.

 

 

Stay  –>  Yufuin Hanayoshi

 

Visited a private art museum/library after checking out on the next day. It was attached to another luxurious onsen resort containing the collections from its owner. To our surprise, on the 2nd floor there was a small room with live radio broadcast !

 

Had a coffee before crossing Mt Yufu into Beppu where we’d stay for another 2 nights.

 

===>    Beppu   ====>

 

 

JP 2019 May Beppu

Our 4th stay in this onsen city with about 8 different onsen areas.

2nd stay in huge onsen hotel/resort in Kankaiji onsen. Selected a spacious room with distant seaview. Had onsen in its huge sea-facing rotenburo. Stayed in this hotel again (since 2008) to try its Italian dinner whose main chef was from Ginza. Super-delicious course with seafood and local beef, apart from great service.

 

Usuki Seki-butsu

As we had visited the Jigokus’ in Beppu in previous trips, drove to Usuki for its Seki-butsu (Stone Buddhas) sculpted into cliffs. The Stone Buddhas are grouped in four separate clusters. Took less than 1 hour to complete an easy trail which covers them.

 

 

Mt Tsurumi

Back to Beppu and headed up to Mt Tsurumi by ropeway. From the top station, we took a short hike of 20 min and reached the summit @1375m. Caught sight of some early blooming Miyama-Kirishima, apart from panoramic views of the Bay of Beppu stretching all the way to Oita to the south – as in the featured photo.

 

 

After descending from the ropeway, had a coffee  before checking into another onsen hotel close to the JR Beppu station. The rotenburo was huge – akin to a swimming pool. Had a nice fusion dinner with free flow of alcohol – wine/sake/whisky.

 

 

After checking out on next morning, took JR Sonic express train to Hakata direct in 2 hours.

 

===>   Fukuoka   ====>

 

 

JP 2019 May Kurokawa onsen

Stay –> Yamabiko onsen ryokan

 

It was our 2nd stay in Kurokawa onsen, whose ryokans are scattered on either side of a gorge with a stream flowing in between.  Paths are narrow and only one-way traffic is allowed inside the onsen town.  We had a stroll after breakfast in the much quieter town when most tourists had left.

 

 

Kuju Kogen

Leaving Kuju Kogen and heading north, dropped by Chojabara visitor centre. Both offer plenty of hiking trails in Mt Kuju mountain range.

 

 

 

Kokonoe “Ume” bridge (九重“夢”大吊橋)

It is slightly under 400m long crossing a wide gorge. 2 waterfalls called Shidono-taki (trembling waterfalls) – 1 female and 1 male could be viewed while crossing it.

The observatory uphill from the northern end of the bridge offers  panoramic views of the gorge as shown in the featured photo.

As we were heading to Yufuin for lunch, we did not drop by the shops and eateries in the parking lot.

 

====>   Yufuin   ====>