Category Archives: Koyo

Koyo or Momiji is Japanese for fall foliage

Koyo, Sightseeing

JP 2025 Nov Koyo Kansai (Part 1)

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Visited Kansai area for koyo from end Nov for 13 days. 

Overall itin – KIX > Osaka (o/n) > Kinosaki onsen (o/n) > Amanohashidate (o/n) > Kyoto (4n) > Biwako (3n) > Osaka/Namba (3n)

 

Stayed in Osaka/Umeda overnight after landing in KIX. On next morning took JR express train to Sanda, Hyogo Prefecture (40 min direct) and picked up a rental car. Dropped by Kogen-ji along the way to Sannin area. 

 

Kogen-ji (高源寺)

Took about an hour to arrive at Kogen-ji along national roads. Picked this temple to catch its Tenmoku maple (天目かえで), which was said to be brought back from Mt Tenmu, Hanzhou (China) by its founding master monk where he was trained. The Tenmoku maple is characterized by smaller leaves and drooping branches. 

Koyo was past peak when viewed from behind the 3-storey pagoda, let alone with plenty of falling leaves when stepping onto the temple ground. There were not many visitors on a normal weekday and we stayed for around 1 hour.

 

3-storey pagoda
likely Tenmoku maple in close-up

 

Kinosaki onsen (城崎温泉)

Arrived at Kinosaki onsen town and took ropeway uphill. Nice views with peak koyo. Returned to onsen town and strolled around before checking into onsen hotel.  

On top of the Kinosaki ropeway station

tombstone for kani (crab)

 

Had a sumptuous crab and beef dinner course in onsen hotel. One whole seasonal crab was served for each person with servings including steamed, grilled etc. Dinner commenced from 18:30 and it took well over 2 hours to finish – almost a record !

Took a stroll at dusk for night views as well as to help digestion.  Luckily it was chilly though w/o strong wind.  While there are several public onsen houses with free entry for staying customers, we did not bother but content with the rotenburo inside onsen hotel that we stay as usual. 

 

Full crab and beef course
serene night views

 

On next morning had breakfast and strolled around before checking out. 

 

view from hotel room
huge Atago-nashi (pear)
bun filled with Tajima-gyu (beef)

 

===========>    Part 2    ============>

 

Koyo, Sightseeing

JP 2025 Nov Koyo Kansai (Part 2)

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Headed eastbound to Amanohashidate by skirting along the coastline, dropping by Ine famous for funaya (boat house). 

 

 

As it started to rain and getting windier, we checked into onsen hotel Monjuso, Amanohashidate. 

 

On next morning strolled along the tombolo famous for pine tree forest and left. 

 

Amanohashidate Jinja
Pine trees in various shapes
cruise
canal view with onsen hotel we stayed in the distance

 

==========>   Kyoto   ==========>

 

 

 

Koyo

JP 2025 Koyo Kyoto (Part 1)

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Headed into Kameoka city by expressway, dropped by Kuwayama Jinja (鍬山神社) 

Koyo was at peak and gorgeous with more visitors.  Stayed for less than 1 hour. 

 

Next we headed to the Osawa-no-ike (大沢池) adjacent to Daikoku-ji (大覚寺). We had visited the latter temple in 2016 for peak koyo but skipped the former as it was getting late and dark. Luckily when we visited the pond (in this trip) it was a clear day with blue sky.

 

 

Headed uphill to Takao for the first time. Road was winding with forests on either side of the road. Had late lunch in a small, terraced cafe overlooking the valley on the opposite side of the Kiyotaki river. 

Visited Kosan-ji with gorgeous koyo. There were some crowds though not overwhelming, probably it was on a weekday and our visit was almost at 3pm.  The temple ground was huge extending uphill for about 10-15 min of trekking from the main road.  Stayed for an hour. 

 

Kosan-ji

 

Returned to the main road and drove to Kyoto hotel – car returned.

Koyo along the main road

 

 

===========>   Kyoto Part 2   ===========>

 

 

Koyo

JP 2025 Koyo Kyoto (Part 2)

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On the next morning visited Manshu-in (曼殊院) to the north of Enko-ji, which we visited 3 years ago. Took Keihan commuter train to the Shugakuin station and taxi uphill to the main entrance.  Koyo outside the temple wall formed a tunnel/boulevard where we spent 15 min. 

Spotted a column commemorating the visit by the former Heisei Emperor and Queen. 

Koyo tunnel outside Manshuin
Manshu-in entrance

 

Manshu-in has been visited by many members of the royal family in the past, with archived photos of their past visits exhibited inside the temple.  Stayed for 1 hour.  There were other visitors but not crowded.

While no photo is allowed inside the temple, it is permitted for the landscape garden. 

 

 

Koyo from Manshu-in to Shugakuin station downhill via Saginomori Jinja – hardly any visitor except us. 

 

Saginomori Jinja

 

On the next day visited the Kamigamo Jinja (上賀茂神社).  There were more locals – some were dressed up in local customs for ceremonies.  We left after 1 hour. 

In retrospect when we visited the Shimogamo Jinja in 2019 for the same there were local couples and families dressed up for wedding ceremony. 

 

Kamigamo Jinja
multiple Torii gates

 

On the next day we visited the National Museum of Modern Art Kyoto for a break. Apart from modern paintings, there was a special exhibition of Tsumugi Silk weaving by Shimura Fukumi. 

 

 

Our last koyo visit in Kyoto was Sanzen-in, Ohara. Due to its distance from Kyoto downtown and lack of efficient public transports it has long been postponed. Picked up a rental car in Katata, Shiga Prefecture, whose driving distance is not just shorter but also avoiding the traffic jams in Kyoto downtown.  It took less than 30 min with sparse traffic even on a Sunday morning.  

Though it had the most crowds of all our koyo visits in this trip so far, it’s more spread out in its huge temple ground and landscape gardens in both up and downhill. We probably spent nearly 2 hours for one of the most spectacular koyo spots. 

Sanzen-in, Ohara
Sanzen-in entrance

 

Had lunch in a nearby local restaurant while marveling at the beautiful scenery outside. Dropped by a centre selling agricultural produce.  Drove to our next onsen hotel in Biwako afterwards. 

 

 

==========>   Biwako   ==========>

 

 

Koyo, Sightseeing

JP 2025 Koyo Biwako/Osaka

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Checked into an onsen hotel for 3n overlooking Biwako from Moriyama city along the eastern lake rim.  On the next day visited Chojyu-ji (湖南三山 長壽寺), literally meaning longevity. It has been worshipped by locals for safe delivery, healthy upbringing of kids apart from praying for long lives.  The temple is a national treasure and has been founded more than 1200 years ago during the Heian-era. 

It was serene. Koyo was absolutely stunning and with sparse visitors we stayed for 1+ hour. 

National Treasure Chojyu-ji
山号 阿星山 “Ashosan”
Hakusan Jinja

 

For lunch we headed to nearby Morishima main shop in Omihachiman again since 2022, though we decided to try the western-style grilled Omi-gyu (beef) this time 🙂 It was delicious and highly recommended. 

 

Morishima
Omi-gyu (beef)

 

On the last day in Biwako we visited the Konomiya Jinja (胡宮神社) uphill of Hikone city. It was serene with infrequent visitors. Stayed for roughly an hour and headed into the old shopping street in Hikone city looking for the delicious and unique beef soup noodles that we had prior to covid years. Unfortunately, it was closed on that day and we had lunch in another local eatery. 

After lunch drove to outlet in Ryuoo for shopping and coffee before returning to hotel. 

 

Konomiya Jinja

 

On the next day we checked out from Biwako onsen hotel, returned car in Katata and returned to Osaka/Namba by public transports. Stayed for another 3n before departure. 

 

Spacious room overlooking Biwako
room with ensuite onsen
X’mas tree in the hotel lobby
bridge crossing Biwako and connecting to Katata

 

In Namba we stayed in Nankai Swisshotel, which we used to stay some 10 years ago.   We picked a more spacious room with views of Namba Parks and Tennoji etc.  On the next day we visited a local Oden shop in Kobe city, introduced by a local TV program aired in this trip.  Arrived at the shop during lunch time and it was fully seated by locals. Ordered Oden-lunch sets plus add-on items which were all inexpensive and delicious.

 

room overlooking Namba Parks and Tennoji
night view of Namba Parks
indoor swimming pool
Oden shop in Kobe city
Nankai Rapi:t train

 

With nice and warm memories after 13 days we departed Kansai. 

 

~~~~~~~~~~~   T H E   E N D   ~~~~~~~~~~~

Koyo

JP 2022 Dec Koyo Tokyo (Part 1)

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Took Hokuriku Shinkansen to Tokyo direct in less than 3 hours. There were plenty of vacant seats in the non-reserved cars till Nagano.

Stayed in Shibuya – one of our fav areas and keen to find out how it might have evolved after new buildings like Shibuya Scramble Square have sprung up in the last few years. Overall it was as busy as in the past.

 

Rikugien (六義園)

Our first visit. Although Koyo has slightly past peak, there were plenty of local visitors on a normal weekday.  It is a beautiful landscape garden with well designed trails, interspersed by streams, ponds and bridges.  Stayed there for 1 hour+.

 

 

Kamakura

On the next day we headed to Kamakura and Shonan – our fav spots outside Tokyo metropolitan.  It happened that a festival was held in the Tsuruoka Hachiman-gu, where we found many youngsters in school uniforms, apart from many locals.

 

 

In the evening, met up with local friends who had arranged a Japanese dinner in a traditional restaurant in Omotesando, which served produce from Niigata Prefecture.  It was such a nice reunion in Japan post-covid 🙂

 

 

 

======>   Tokyo (Part 2)   ======>

 

Koyo

JP 2022 Nov Koyo Kansai

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Visited Japan in end Nov after the border has reopened to international tourists. It was a 14-day trip from Kansai to Tokyo via Hokuriku – visiting Fukui Prefecture for the first time.

Overall itin – KIX > Osaka > Arima onsen > Kyoto > Fukui > Kanazawa > Tokyo

 

Landed in Osaka/KIX and it roughly took about 40 min to exit into the arrivals lobby, despite possessing the 3 QR codes generated by the Visit Japan Web, and there was no line in immigration.

Headed into the Osaka/Umeda by limo bus and checked into Hotel Granvia Osaka. To our surprise, there was a super-long line on Sunday evening (maybe due to the GoTo program as most were locals) and it took like 50 min to get our room key on the highest Executive floor.

Had our first dinner in Japan (in almost 3 years) in a local “kappo” in West Umeda. Food was so delicious – esp the tempura items.  Felt a bit sorry for the shop – we’re the only customers in that evening until around 8:30pm when we’re about to leave. 

 

Kinmedai sashimi, Hoteta-gai aburi
renkon tempura
Shiitake embedded with shrimp tempura
gyu-suji
Dinner in West Umeda

 

On the next day we took express bus to Arima onsen (our 3rd stay) in 1 hour.  After dropping our luggage in the onsen hotel, we hiked up to the Zuihoji Koen (Park), passing by the familiar temples and the public onsen bath along the way.  There were some visitors – all locals but not crowded. A senior couple asked me to take photos for them and he offered a handshake after knowing that we’re from Hong Kong.

Koyo had clearly past peak – the driver of the hotel shuttle bus told us it was 1 week ago.  We knew it but that’s the earliest timeline we could visit Japan 🙂

 

Koyo in Arima onsen and Zuihoji Park

 

2nd stay in Kourokan – annexed ryokan of Gekkoen, Arima onsen 

 

Main Chef Omakase course (5 sets daily)

 

 

======>   Kyoto (Part 1)   ======>

 

 

Koyo

JP 2022 Nov Koyo Kyoto (Part 1)

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It was raining on the next morning in Arima onsen and Kinki area.  Returned to Kyoto around lunch time by express bus.  Lined up outside our fav sushi shop beneath the Kyoto station before checking in Hotel Okura. Stayed in room facing the Higashiyama area for the first time.  Some famous landmarks such as Chion-in, Nanzenji, Eikando etc could be identified with the help of a brief map on the window pane.

There was a light haze in Higashiyama after rain had stopped.

 

Kaiten sushi, Kyoto station
Higashiyama in the distance
temple beneath Hotel Okura
Hotel Okura lobby

 

 

Had breakfast in our fav coffee shop chain in Teramachi. It was quiet with few customers – unlike its shops elsewhere. Besides, it has a mini-Japanese garden inside.

Dropped by Honno-ji (本能寺) next door, at the back there is a small temple dedicated to Oda Nobunaga and his sword grave.  Honnō-ji is most famous for the Honnō-ji incident – the assassination of Oda Nobunaga. In that incident the original temple had been burned down whereas the current temple was subsequently rebuilt.

Teramachi, Kyoto

 

Seiryo-ji (清凉寺)

Visited this temple in Arashiyama – as recommended by a respected local Sensei.  It stores several national treasures of Japan (photos not allowed), including a small wooden Buddha statue* originated from India, brought to China during the Southern dynasties and finally brought to Japan during the Song dynasty 1000+ years ago.

Though koyo was off-peak in the landscape garden at the back, there were some brilliant spots on its premises.  Visitors were sparse.

*本尊　赤栴檀の釈迦如来（国宝）

 

 

 

=====>   Kyoto (Part 2)  =====>

 

Koyo

JP 2022 Nov Koyo Omihachiman

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On the next morning we took JR Kaisoku (rapid) commuter train to Kusatsu, Shiga Prefecture (in about 20 min direct). Picked up a rental car and headed to Oike-ji, Koka in about 45 min (< 25km away), due to busy traffic on national roads.

It was quiet and the head monk received and briefed us with a video. The landscape garden is serene. We stayed for less than 1 hour.

 

Oike-ji (大池寺)

 

Lunch in Morishima Honten (毛利志満 近江八幡本店)

drove to this 100+ year old shop whose beef cattle are raised in its own farm. The grilled Omi-gyu (近江牛)  was delicious. The restaurant was quite full and thus we had to wait for a while w/o reservation.

 

 

Kyorinbo (教林坊)

Next we drove to Kyorinbo, which was the most brilliant koyo spot in this visit !!  Re its website it was founded by Prince Shotoku (聖德太子) in early 7th century AD.

There were more visitors though not crowded. 

 

 

The more brilliant spots were around Hondo (main hall) and opposite Shuin (library). 

Out of the blue, it suddenly rained. Thus, almost all visitors sought for shelter in Shuin. After 10 min or so, it was getting heavier and even small round white pellets rained down – our first experience !  Luckily it wasn’t those large hailstone and no one seemed to be hurt.

 

Hondo on the side
Shuin
small pool turned reddish
small white pellets rained down
after rain had stopped

 

Omihachiman (近江八幡)

Next we drove to the canal area of Omihachiman.  Dropped by the Hakuunkan (literally white cloud hall) – in European architecture which now serves as the tourist information centre.  As traffic was fairly heavy along the way, we did not stay for long and returned to Kusatsu. 

 

 

 

=====>   Kyoto (Part 4)   =====>

 

Koyo

JP 2022 Nov Koyo Kyoto (Part 4)

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On the last day in Kyoto we visited Kaju-ji (勧修寺) in Yamashina.  Did not stay long as Hondo and other halls were being renovated so a bit noisy.  There were a few visitors that morning.  

 

 

Daruma-ji (Horin-ji)

達磨寺 （法輪寺）

Returned to Kyoto city to visit Daruma-ji, where there are hundreds of daruma dolls in various sizes.  Unexpectedly on the second floor, there’s a room containing the mortuary tablets of Japanese movie directors, actors, actresses, singers of the last century.  

 

mortuary tablets of Japanese actors, actresses, movie directors

 

This sums up our 5-day stay in Kyoto in this trip. Overall, it was generally less crowded in Kyoto, though we did not visit Gion nor the Higashiyama area.

Next we’re heading to Hokuriku.

 

=====>   Echizen Kaigan, Fukui   =====>