Kamikochi @1400m is another favourite ‘koyo’ spot for us. We first visited in Nov 1999 when most foliage passed peak and were mostly brownish, with many leaves on the ground. We returned twice in different months – once in May and another trip in Oct. In 2010 we returned for the 4th time, hoping to catch fall colours at its peak. Turned out to be about 70% at eye level, where on the mountain slopes there were some patches of red and yellow.
We arrived early in the morning to start our trekking from Taisho-ike. The pond was almost still and serene. With almost perfect reflections of the Mt Hotaka range, Mt Yaki etc in the water, we were so pleased with Kamikochi as the finale of this koyo trip.
The Shin-Hotaka ropeway is a double-decker, stretching from 1100m up to 2100m. At the top observatory, a panoramic view of the JP Alps can be seen, with summits ranging from 2400m – 3100m like Mt Nishi-Hotaka, Mt Yari, Mt Kasa, Mt Yake etc.
Overall itin – Tokyo > The Alpine route (East to West) > Kurobe Gorge > Shin-hotaka > Kamikochi > Tokyo
The Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine route is the one of the most spectacular during fall foliage season. It descends from Murodo side from 2700m+ from mid September.
We visited in mid-Oct when peak fall foliage descended to about 1800-2200m. We took a “East-to-West” route, commencing from Ogizawa (on Nagano side) and exit in Tateyama (on Toyama side). We stayed in Omachi onsen-go the night before. While no car is allowed, all have to take 6 different types of transports within this route. Even though it was on a normal day, there were loads of tourists so we had to queue up between 5 to 20min.
From Ogizawa @1400m to Daikanbo @2300m (Nagano side)
The most beautiful fall foliage was between Kurobe-daira @1850m to Daikanbo. While we were walking across the Kurobe dam @1400m, water was released from the Kurobe lake. The ride on the ropeway was the highlight, where we were in a sea of colourful foliage.
Ogizawa station @1400m
water being released from Kurobe dam @12 noon
Lake Kurobe
queueing for cable car up to Kurobe-daira
Kurobe-daira @1800m
Mt Tateyama @3000m+ viewed from Kurobe-daira @1800m
view of Mt Tateyama @3000m+ from Kurobe-daira @1800m
ropeway to Daikanbo
on ropeway upto Daikanbo @2300m
view from Daikanbo
Murodo @2450m to Tateyama (Toyama side)
Once arrived at Murodo, we had a quick bite and took a walking trail of about 1hr. Fall foliage up there had passed its peak in the ponds such as Mikuriga-ike, however, we were lucky to have spotted some rare birds – Thunderbird (Raicho). We stayed in the Tateyama hotel – probably the highest hotel in Japan. Chose a French course and surprisingly it was better than expected, including its service. The next morning when we woke up we were literally above a sea of clouds. Thus, before descending we took a quick stroll along the walking trail to take advantage of clear blue sky and reflections in the ponds. Took the only highland bus, descended to Midagahara @1900m and did some trekking there for some fall foliage, though the peak had passed as well. On the way down from the bus, we passed Kobo probably @1600m and the colours were at peak! Next, we descended to Bijodaira @1100m where there were some huge Sugi trees. As it was turning late and it was well below the foliage zone, we decided to skip it and exit the Alpine route – we still had to travel to Unazuki onsen for overnight stay.
Murodo @2450m
sea of clouds in the morning from hotel room
Murodo-daira with Mt Tateyama in the background
Hotel Tateyama in Murodo
descended to Midagahara @1900m by bus
followed walking trails there
Bijyodaira station @1100m
took cable car descending to Tateyama station
Exiting the Alpine route in Tateyama station in the west
1st time staying in a pension. Owners were extremely cordial. Had dinner with their parents on one night. On our last dinner a deer hunted by them was grilled in the fireplace.
top of Appi
Mt Appi viewed from train
Pork shabu-shabu dinner
pension owners
all you can drink – sake, whiskey, beer etc
deep snow everywhere
Yamagata Zao – 2 day ski
After skiing in Appi for 2 days, went to Yamagata Zao for another 2 days for the 1st time. Had known about these tree monsters (Juhyo) before, but it was really captivating being surrounded by thousands of them. The whole scene was surreal as if we were on another planet!
Juhyo on either side of ski course
numerous of these extending uphill
view from gondolda
view from top observation deck @1600m
close encounter @1600m outside Jizosancho station
top of ski course @1600m
Kaiseki dinner in onsen ryokan
Zao onsen opened for 1900 years, as stated in poster
Juhyo may or may not be seen even in close range, much depending on weather condition. When the mt top is shrouded in mists/clouds, nothing can be seen. A local senior couple whom we met in the onsen ryokan for dinner went up there w/o seeing anything. We were lucky to catch a glimpse of them when the mists suddenly cleared up for about 30min when we were having a late lunch up there.
had a great time with ski pals skiing, dining, drinking !!
As happy as Doraemon upon arrival at the airport
First buffet dinner – even grilled beef was tender and delicious
top of Mt East Isola
Mt Yotei on the left
Toya-ko in the distance
came down from mogul A course
cake and tea time after skiing
local group performing Irish music
French dinner
Italian dinner
in the bar after dinner
Niseko – 2 day ski
Snow was not great even in mid March 2016. Quite disappointed – just a little bit of powder at the very top due to unusually warm weather for a couple of days prior to our arrival.
Took shuttle bus from Norikura Kogen @1400m and reached Norikura Sancho Tatami-daira 乗鞍山頂畳平 (terminal) at 2700m in about 1 hr. (private car is not allowed). Helpful visitor centre staff offered map and advice to approach the summit. The first 30 min was an easy trek, followed by a steep climb to the summit in another 60min. Rocky boulders were everywhere so mountain boots and hiking poles would be highly recommended. Was thrilled to be walking above the clouds. There were many people going up and down that morning, including kids. By the time i reached the summit many people were up there. Unfortunately, there were mist and clouds around the summit level so could not see the rest of the JP Alps. Not far down from the summit was a small pond in turquoise water – not sure if it’s from natural hotspring or rain.
Surprisingly, a Jingu was up there and a local in Jingu costume selling souvenirs. And in a mt hut at 2900m one could have fresh coffee etc. Totally amazing !
This hiking route opens from July till late Oct, when there is no snow or severe weather.
Stayed in Grand Hotel in April 2015 during peak sakura blossom
Our stay there was nice. Nice views of the onsen town from higher ground. Dinner was fusion style with Kobe beef served. The garden was filled with sakura in full bloom.
Myoko Kogen is in fact in Niigata Prefecture, on the border with Nagano Prefecture. 2nd visit since 2001. So glad to be back with a tint of fall foliage, probably 10%
Imori-ike (いもり池) with Mt Myoko in the background
Waterfalls in Myoko Kogen and in Suzaka
Visited 3 waterfalls, with probably 50% of fall colours.
Soutaki (惣滝) in Tsubame onsen
Otaki (大滝) in Seki-onsen
Dual waterfall – Yonako Daibakufu (米子大瀑布) in Suzaka, Nagano
Visited in early Oct for peak koyo (fall foliage) at higher elevations. Norikura Kogen > Togakushi > Myoko Kogen > Yonako dual waterfalls in Suzaka > Yudanaka onsen
Norikura Kogen (乗鞍高原）
From late September onwards, fall foliage would commence its descend from 2700m. Took the only shuttle bus to Tatami-daira (terminal) 乗鞍畳平 and started descending along the main road, alongside with many others doing the same, while from time to time, there were cyclists ascending ! Though the fall foliage has passed its peak @2500-2600m, it has descended to 2000-2300m with vivid colours on the way. Took about 5 hrs to descend to Resenkoya @2100m, before jumping on shuttle bus to return to base @1400m. On next morning, prior to hiking up to the summit of Mt Norikura, the pension owner was so nice to drive me to nearby Ichinose area with beautiful pond and foliage reflections.
Picked up a rental car near Nagano station and visited Kagami-ike (mirror pond) 鏡池 with reflections of Mt Togakushi. Fall foliage was probably about 30%. Walked part of the Togakushi-sando leading to Togakushi Jinja with a long boulevard of tall Japanese cedar trees (Sugi).
2nd visit since 2005. Took the new Hokuriku Shinkansen to Kanazawa from Tokyo. Visited Kenroku-en (兼六園), one of the 3 most famous gardens in Japan.
Shirakawa-go (白川郷)
World Heritage. 2nd visit since 2005, when the village was covered in snow in early December. This time we arrived after peak fall foliage.
Noto Peninsula
visited the western part known as Noto Kongo coastline as day trip before returning to Wakura onsen town for overnight stay.
Eagles’ nest rock
Kanmon rock
Hatago Iwa
Wakura onsen town
Kurobe gorge (黒部峡谷)
2nd visit since 2010. This time we reached the innermost Keyakidaira by Torroko train where fall foliage has clearly passed its peak, though there were still some in the Unazuki onsen town.
