Before checking into the onsen hotel in Chuzenji-ko we dropped by the Kegon fall. Unfortunately, it was completely obscured in fog+mists+rain. Well, we had seen it four times before. That’s the consolation we told ourselves 🙁
Chuzenji-ko (中禪寺湖)
On the next morning after hotel checkout, the rain did not stop nor did the visibility improve – the entire Mt Nantai was obscured. Thus, we just dropped by an observatory point along the lake rim before returning to Takasaki along the same road.
Fukiware-no-taki (吹割の滝)
Before reaching Numata city we dropped by the funnel-shaped Fukiware falls. It was a short walk of about 30min and worth it.
We returned car in Takasaki and stayed in Tokyo for the weekend. Due to rainy days, we did not go for any outdoor trip but dropped by Roppongi Hills where the Halloween decorations and goods were on the shelves.
Next we headed to Kamikochi while the super-typhoon Lan was approaching.
First koyo trip in 2017 which span for 2 weeks in late October – Okunikko, Kamikochi, spots in Nagano Prefecture, Myoko Kogen and Naruko.
We had originally planned to take a boat ride again in Mogamigawa in Yamagata Prefecture, but due to typhoon 22 which brought heavy rain and windy weather to Tohoku, we had to drop it.
We travelled by trains to the nearest stations and picked up cars to visit all those locations (except for Kamikochi). In between we returned to Tokyo for breaks during weekends to avoid crowds.
Okunikko (奥日光)
Our 5th visit but first time by car approaching from Takasaki in Gumma Prefecture.
After landing in Tokyo, we travelled to Takasaki by Shinkansen, picked up car and headed to Ikaho onsen overnight.
It was raining when we checked out. We drove along the Romantic Road passing the Oze-kogen and headed towards Yunoko @1500m in Okunikko. Koyo was in peak though the lake was obscured in fog/mist. Next we drove to Yudaki waterfall slightly downhill.
lake rim of Yunoko
Yudaki – thundering downhill
Senjougahara (戦場ヶ原) and Ryuzu falls (竜頭ノ滝)
Before reaching Chuzenji-ko @1200m, visited these spots along the way. Peak koyo in Ryuzu falls as well, as in the feature photo.
Returned to Osaka/Tennoji and checked into hotel in Abeno Harukas.
headed to Expo ’70 park in northern Osaka. Roses have passed its peak blossom and most have started pelting due to hot temperature of 30C over past few days. While in another corner, hydrangea have started to bloom.
Expo ’70 Commemorative Park
Kurama/Kibune
Headed to Kurama and Kibune as day trip in northern Kyoto for first time. Took Eizan rail to climb uphill and arrived at Kurama, whose temples were built along hillside. As we have planned to hike over to Kibune, we took a cable car about halfway uphill.
Eizan train to Kurama
Kurama station
entrance to Kurama
Nio-mon
looking back from cable car
further slopes and steps uphill
Honden Kondo
Main Hall
Hiking to Kibune
This took about 45min from Kurama Honden (Main Hall) via Okuno-in uphill then downhill. Bumped into a bunch of school kids who were in outing.
Uphill from Okunoin
Kinone Michi
Yoshitsune-do
Okunoin Maoden
Nishi-mon (western gate)
Kibune Jinja
Kibune
As it was almost 1pm when we arrived at Kibune we went for Kawadoko ryori (dining) in Hirobun, about 15min uphill from Nishi-mon. Along the mountain stream platforms are built during the summer months till September so visitors can enjoy a meal while stream flows underneath.
Although it was on a weekday, the queue for the famous “Nagashi-somen” took 1 hour. Thus, we opted for one of the lunch courses instead – with somen anyway. The lunch set was nice – better than expected and it was truly refreshing and relaxing sitting next to a mountain stream, when day temperature exceeded 30C.
After finishing lunch, we headed downhill to visit Kibune Jinja. Then headed downhill for bus and trains back to Osaka via Kyoto.
platforms upon stream
Hirobun
Kaiseki lunch with somen
heading up to Kibune Jinja
Main Hall
Eizan train arriving at Kibune-guchi
Views from hotel room and Observatory in Abeno Harukas
Stayed in this luxurious onsen resort hotel while visiting Shirahama. Given all are suite rooms we picked a western-style suite in 90 sqm. Lavishly decorated, it has meticulous facilities, while meals were prepared from top food sources from Spain, Hokkaido and elsewhere in Japan.
After checking out from Ichijo-in in Koyasan, we drove to Kumano Taisha almost 90km away in almost 3 hours, along narrow mountainous road downhill. There were some beautiful scenery on the way.
Kumano Hongu Taisha (熊野本宮大社)
entrance at Kumano Hongu Taisha
some steps to be conquered
Kumano Hayatama Taisha (熊野速玉大社)
It was a very hot day at well over 30C in the area. Had a quick soba lunch and drove to coastal town Shingu for Hayatama Taisha.
Before we left, dropped by Jofuku Koen (徐福公園). The legend of Jofuku (Xu Fu in Chinese) is that he led 3000 boys and girls by sea to a fairy island to look for longevity herbs, by order of the First Emperor of China during the Chin Dynasty around 200 B.C. After landing, he found the place fertile and in good climate. So he stayed behind and passed on agricultural and fishery skills.
Hayatama Taisha
visits by date by emperors
Jofuku Koen
Statue of Jofuku (Xu Fu in Chinese)
Kumano Nachi Taisha (熊野那智大社)
2nd visit since 2013. Though it was not in our plan, as we finished early in Shingu dropped by again while driving en route to onsen ryokan in Kii Katsuura. Visited the Nachi Fall – the tallest in Japan.
Our 2nd visit to Wakayama since 2013. This time we visited World Heritage Koyasan and 3 Kumano Taishas before returning to Shirahama and Osaka.
Our overall itin – KIX > Wakayama > Koyasan > Kii Katsuura > Shirahama > Osaka/Tennoji, day visits to Kyoto/Kurama, Kibune
Driving itin – Wakayama > Koyasan > 3 Kumano Taishas including Shingu > Kii Katsuura > Shirahama
Picked up rental car in Wakayama city and drove uphill to Koyasan. Visited Garan, Okuno-in and Kongobu-ji. Stayed overnight in temple for the first time.
Koyasan (高野山)
Miedo
Kondo
sculpture of Kobodaishi in Okunoin
Okuno-in – beyond this bridge no photo is allowed
surprise – some Koyo in Okunoin
Kongobu-ji
no photo is allowed inside
Temple stay in Ichijo-in (高野山 一乗院)
This was our first temple stay, which has been held up as most temples do not offer room with own toilet and bathroom, until we found Ichijo-in which does. Though we are well used to shared bathroom as in onsen ryokans, not having a toilet in a room is a big NO.
Vegetarian meals were served. Dinner was served from 17:30, which is the earliest dinner we ever had in Japan – luckily we checked in after 4pm or else we might have missed it ! At 6am on next morning bell rang to summon all for morning prayers while room was prepared for breakfast serving. The morning prayer lasted for 1 hour and was attended by about 30 people.
Stayed this onsen ryokan in Yufuin in 2013. We have booked 5 rooms but to our surprise when we arrived we were led to 5 separate houses, each with a living room, one or more bedrooms on upper floor, bath and in-room onsen !! This ryokan has a huge premise – the big rotenburo is uphill with stairs with its own well. Mt Yufu could be seen from there. Unlike elsewhere in Yufuin where onsen is transparent, in this small area of Yufuin onsen is bluish in colour.