Furano

Drove to Tomita Farm in Kami-Furano. When we arrived at Hinode (sunrise) garden in Biei after 3pm, sun was slowly setting and it shined a warm yellowish orange glow in the fields, a slightly pink glow in the far away Mt Tokachi range.

Biei

On the next day, we continued our visits in Biei. First we went to Flowerland where the deep red Kochia quickly caught our attention, whereas the pink Cosmos is a widely seen in Autumn Hokkaido. Next we quickly drove around the Patchwork road to visit the Mild-Seven trees, the family trees,  Ken & Mary tree, the Philosophical tree – our favourite. From Shikisai-no-oka, we noticed the Mt Tokachi range was well covered in snow (in the distance), so we headed up to the mountain gate where it was covered in snow.

Sapporo

in Sapporo, fall foliage was probably at 70% peak. Visited the campus of University of Hokkaido, and Nakajima Park.

Returned to Hokkaido for a 10-day trip from mid to late October by car. This was to time for peak fall foliage in places like Shiretoko, lakes in Teshikaga, Tokachi, Biei/Furano etc.

Sounkyo > Abashiri (層雲峽 >  網走)

Took JR express train to Asahikawa straight from New Chitose airport. Next morning picked up rental car and arrived at Sounkyo around noon. Fall foliage obviously has passed its peak as expected. Visited the dual waterfall – Ginga-no-Taki (Milky Way Galaxy waterfall) and Ryusei-no-Taki (meteor waterfall). Next day, stopped by Mt Tento in Abashiri while driving to Shiretoko. From Mt Tento, Abashiri-ko and Okhotsk Bay can be seen.

Shiretoko 5 lakes (知床五湖)

Stayed in a nice onsen hotel in Utoro town (see ONSEN page). Next day visited World Heritage Shiretoko 5 lakes. It was an easy walking trail. Fall colours were not that brilliant – peak might have passed. Bumped into wild deers so everybody around suddenly went silent. Afterwards, drove to Shiretoko-toge (Pass) for a close-up view of Mt Rausu, whose summits were already covered by some snow patches. On the way to Shari, stopped by Oshikoshin-no-taki (waterfall).

Kussharo-ko, Mashu-ko, Akan-ko (屈斜路湖 > 摩周湖 > 阿寒湖)

2nd visit to these 3 lakes we like most in Hokkaido East. Drove to Bihoro-toge (Pass) and Wakoto Peninsula for nice views of Kussharo-ko. Stayed in Kussharo-ko onsen hotel as we love the serene lakeview from hotel room. On next day we went to Mashu-ko. Unlike in May we finally had a panoramic view (clear of fog) from 3rd observatory deck. Finally, we went to Akan-ko and stayed in Tsuruga onsen hotel (see ONSEN page).

Tokachi > Shintoku > Minami-Furano (十勝 > 新得 > 南富良野)

From Tokachi we drove to Tokachigawa for our favourite onsen in Hokkaido, while stopping by Ikeda for lunch, where it produces wines from local grapes. On next day, we drove to Furano, stopping by Shintoku for famous soba produced locally when a rainbow showed up briefly. Next we drove past Minami-Furano where some colourful foliage was along the road.

==>> Part 2 ==>>

Kamifurano (上富良野町)

Visited Tomita Farm in Kamifurano, Saka-no-sato then onward to Flowerland. Drove up to Tokachi-dake onsen where fall foliage was at peak. In the parking lot, a wild fox was spotted.

Biei (美瑛)

Had lunch in Biei nearby Shikisai-no-oka, visited our old friend Philosophical Tree then head to a pension in Biei. That night it rained heavily when a cold front passed by. On the next morning the nice pension owners led us to the Chiyoda farm and a sunflower field nearby. After waving goodbyes, we continued to the Tokachi mountain gate to have a closer look. While the summits of the Tokachi range was covered in snow after the heavy rain, fall colours were reaching its peak on the slopes.

Shirogane onsen > Teninkyo > Asahidake (白金溫泉 > 天人峡 > 旭岳)

on the way back down to the foothills in Shirogane onsen, the colours in the forest were beautiful as well. After lunch, we drove to Teninkyo, where we stayed in 2004 for a nice onsen. With an easy walk of about 15min, we reached the Hagoromo-no-taki (羽衣の滝) – a beautiful waterfall with peak fall foliage. Similar to Sounkyo, there were strange rocks on the cliffs in Teninkyo. We then headed to nearby Asahidake onsen for overnight stay. On the next morning, we took the Asahidake ropeway to the top observatory @1600m. To our surprise, the Asahidake was well covered in snow already and it was freezing cold with our windbreaker and fleece, which had been more than enough in our entire trip so far except for this!  Took the 1hr walking trail as in 2004 but this time the trail was treacherous, with snow/ice and water pools along the way. Headed back to Asahikawa to return our car, then stayed overnight in Sapporo before flying back home.

Teshikaga/Kussharo-ko, Mashu-ko (屈斜路湖 > 摩周湖)

3rd visit to these 2 lakes we like most in Hokkaido East. We followed our last driving trip in 2006. So glad when we were back in Mashu-ko blue sky and deep blue lake was awaiting us.

Onneto & Akan-ko ( オンネトー > 阿寒湖)

Visited Onneto, a small lake uphill from Akan-ko. Lake was in amazing turquoise with reflections of Mt Me-Akan (Ms Akan), and a bit of fall foliage. Stayed in luxurious Hinoza in Akan-ko, a standalone annex to Tsuruga onsen hotel (see ONSEN page).

Tokachigawa > Shikaribetsu-ko (十勝川 > 然別湖)

From Akan-ko we drove to Tokachigawa for our favourite onsen in Hokkaido. On next day, we drove to Furano, stopping by Shikaribetsu-ko, where there were some fall colours already.

==> Part 3 ==>

Returned to Hokkaido for a 10-day trip from late Sep to early October by car. This was to time for peak fall foliage in places like Sounkyo, Notoro-ko, Mt Tokachi, Teninkyo and Asahidake etc.

Daisetsuzan/Sounkyo ( 大雪山/層雲峽)

Took JR express train to Asahikawa straight from New Chitose airport. Next morning picked up rental car and arrived at Sounkyo around noon. Took Kurodake ropeway to 5th level @1500m. As peak fall foliage had descended to top of Sounkyo valley, we did not go further up to 7th level as the views from ropeway was nice enough.

Kogen onsen

2nd visit since 2004. Though we came a few days later (than in 2004) the fall colours in the numa clearly faded compared to last time. Besides, there were fewer visitors than last time, which was another indication that the peak had passed. Anyway, we hiked back to Takimi-numa and when we reached Midori-numa, the park rangers told us to return as the trails further up were flooded due to recent rain. Maybe this was a consolation peak colours had descended to the entrance gate level @1300m.

We will be back !!

Abashiri/Notoro-ko

Drove to Notoro-ko near Abashiri for Sangoso (coral grass). From mid to late Sep the coral grass would turn from brown to red. It is a swamp and we were there probably after peak but still had a good glimpse.

=> go to Part 2 ==>

Shikotsu-ko (支笏湖)

Our 3rd visit and stay. Always a good place to relax right after landing – easy drive about 30km from Chitose airport car rentals.

Shikotsu-ko onsen resort

Noboribetsu (登別)

Walked up a steep slope to Jigokudani (Hell valley) from parking lot. Drove uphill to Oyunuma and to Kuttara-ko, a peaceful lake.

Noboribetsu onsen ryokan

Toya-ko (洞爺湖)

Drove to Toya-ko via Orofure Pass. Surprise !! Peak fall foliage was on the slopes. Continued onto Toya-ko for our 5th stay in onsen ryokan. Fireworks after dinner and a serene lakeview outside our room.

Niseko (ニセコ)

Visited Niseko 2nd time for fall foliage. We arrived 1 week earlier than in 2008. This time  peak fall foliage was in Oyunuma and Shinsen-numa. We went on to stay in an onsen ryokan in Niseko Annupuri.

Otaru Premier onsen ryokan

Tokachi (十勝)

From Otaru, drove to Tokachigawa onsen to stay in our favourite ryokan for 3rd time. Visited Nissho-toge but foliage was fading. Lunch in a nearby farmhouse.

Tomamu (トマム)

Stayed in this resort before heading to the airport. One of the highlights there was to watch sea of clouds on its observatory @1000m in early morning. Each day, if their forecast is positive then reservation is required for transports to shuttle bus, cable car at around 4am the next morning. We did not intend to go as we had seen it before in the Alpine route. Besides, the forecast on that day was negative. So all guests could have a good sleep.