On the next day we visited the teamLab Planets in Toyosu.
I had visited the teamLab Borderless in 2019, but sadly it was closed in Aug 2022. Though we already possessed e-tickets, we had to line up with others which took about 15 min before admission.
All visitors were required to remove their shoes and socks to be stored in large lockers. Short pants were provided (for free) to access corridors and rooms filled with water up to shin level. Amazing visual effects were deployed. We enjoyed it and stayed for 1 hour+.
walking in water filled with virtual fishes
Tokyo Garden Terrace Kioicho
Dropped by it after lunch. Much to our surprise, roses were blooming, as in early May 2018 when we last visited. Strolled around Akasaka – it seemed more boutique hotels have sprung up, apart from new and old familiar shops. It was amazing that one local patisserie still attracted a long line – as in the past. Went for a coffee break in a nearby local cafe.
Returned to Hong Kong on the next day. Overall, it was a great holiday and Japan has resumed normal in many aspects.
Before checking in onsen ryokan, dropped by a local cool coffee shop in Sakai for a break. Customers have choices of coffee beans from various locations in Central/South America, Africa etc. It’s run by a young guy.
coffee break in Sakai
Awara onsen
Our first stay. Picked a 100+ year old onsen ryokan and stayed in a garden suite of Kangetsu Tei.
spacious suite with balcony
views of landscape garden
living room
bedroom
Calligraphy by former Prime Minister of Japan, and gift from Taisho Emperor are also on display in public area.
Calligraphy by former PM
Gift from Taisho Emperor
Haiya ryokan
Sumptuous Kaiseki dinner in private dining room, great service
On next morning we drove to Kanazawa, but first we dropped by Kakusenkei, Yamanaka onsen about 40 min away. It was smooth driving on national roads in light traffic.
Kakusenkei (鶴仙渓)
Trekked along a short trail of about 1.5km at the bottom of the gorge pleasantly. We crossed the gorge via the purple metallic Ayatori bridge and returned via the traditional Korogi bridge (in featured photo).
From time to time we bumped into locals – babies, kids to seniors. Guess some might be staying in the ryokans of Yamanaka onsen.
The stream was in turquoise in some sections, dotted by fall foliage here and there.
Ayatori bridge
Kakusenkei river bed
turquoise water
Yamanaka onsen (山中温泉)
Public onsen
Bassho museum
As it started to rain, we drove to Kanazawa and returned car.
Checked into Hotel Nikko Kanazawa (2nd stay in this hotel) for 2 nights. Unfortunately, it’s been raining day and night with occasional thunderstorms, apart from getting chilly. Thus we were less keen for sightseeing.
This was our 5th stay in Kanazawa.
Kanazawa-oden dinner
Visited the Omicho market before lunch time. It’s good that it was as busy as in our previous visits.
Had a slightly early lunch in our fav sushi shop before line appeared.
While strolling around the market, couldn’t help stopping by for fresh sashimi
When rain stopped for a while, dashed over to the Kuromon store opposite to the market. Enjoyed coffee and macha cake in a local tea house.
On next morning took JR Thunderbird express train to Fukui city in abt 80 min direct. There were plenty of vacant seats on the reserved cars. Btw, the train staff onboard did not ask for train tickets for validation – unlike in the past for reserved seats. Also, rain and misty clouds dominated the landscape when entering into Fukui Prefecture – similar to our last three experience passing by Fukui.
Meanwhile, overhead tracks (for Shinkansen trains) are being built when entering into Fukui Prefecture, while the JR Fukui station is being expanded for the future Shinkansen station. Re the JR West magazine onboard the train, it has been planned that the Hokuriku Shinkansen would extend to Tsuruga (from Kanazawa) in 2024.
Picked up rental car and drove towards Echizen Kaigan in rain (in about 30 min w/o much traffic) on Sunday morning. Fortunately, the rain stopped when we reached the coast and before turning south towards our first stop.
Hokojima (鉾島)
The pillar rocks are akin to those in Sounkyo/Daisetsuzan, Hokkaido. As it was after fairly heavy rain and still windy, did not bother to climb but went for lunch nearby.
strong sea waves keep crashing onshore
Arrived at a local restaurant overlooking the coast. Ordered 2 kani-don set – kani was seasonal “Seico” kani. Re the staff the Seico-kani and the Kabako-kani are the same, though the former name is used in Fukui. At the end it took more than 20 min for our 2 sets to arrive. But the wait was worthy – the entire bowl of the rice was covered by crab legs and beneath it was a sumptuous amount of crab meat and roe !
It was the best kani-don we ever had !! And it was compatible with the price of a (Kabako) kani-men in Kanazawa-oden. It is good value for money given the great taste and the fact that much manual effort is required.
After such a palatable lunch, we headed slightly further south to watch the Benkai-no-Sentaku Iwa (Benkai’s laundry rocks) before heading northbound to Tojinbo. The rocks look akin to those along the Miyasaki coastline in south-eastern Kyushu, though on a smaller scale.
sumptuous kani-don
Benkai-no-sentaku Iwa
Tojinbo (東尋坊)
It took about 30 min to arrive at Tojinbo, passing by the Mikuni coastline when sun rays emerged – much to our surprise but of course highly welcomed.
After leaving the paid parking lot, we passed by numerous restaurants, food stalls, souvenir shops on both sides of a lane before arriving at the coastline where the spectacular cliffs are. The rocks are in pillar shape similar to Hokojima but of a larger scale with bluffs, as a result of relentless erosion by sea waves.
After checking out we headed back to Fukuoka in about 130km away. Dropped by Dazaifu Tenmangu in the outskirts of Fukuoka.
Though it was a Friday, it was fairly crowded on the road and inside the temple ground, where lots of locals were praying – probably for good luck in the new year, and students passing exams. While it was famous for Ume blossom – with 6000 Ume trees, one or two trees have started blooming in early stage.
entrance
locals lined up praying
Camphor tree estimated to be over 1000 years old
Kirin sculpture
early Ume blossom
Fukuoka
Returned car in Hakata and checked into hotel nearly station. It was lucky that we bumped into the Light Festival by teamLab in Fukuoka Castle Ruins.
Visited the Borderless teamLab in Tokyo/Odaiba 1 year ago. As the show was outdoor the night sky and night views of Fukuoka (featured photo) could be observed. Winter constellations such as Orion, Canis Major, Taurus, Gemini could clearly be seen by naked eye on a cloudless night.
After checking out we headed to the Harajiki falls in Bungo-ono (豊後大野) near Taketa, in less than 80 km to the south of Beppu. The falls span 120m across and of 20m tall. In summer the falls is at its peak volume. Strolled around and had lunch in one of the large road stations nearby.
viewed from the bridge
Fuko-ji Magaibutsu (普光寺磨崖仏)
Noted about this from the pamphlet in the road station. Dropped by Fuko-ji – the stoned buddha was sculpted on a cliff wall. Of over 11m this is the tallest in Japan, sculpted during the Kamakura-era.
Fuko-ji
Beppu onsen
Before returning to Beppu for our last onsen stay, we dropped by the Okajoshi and Taketa town. Have contemplated of possibly returning in Spring so did not stay long.
Checked into seaside onsen hotel in Beppu, selected French dinner course. While all rooms have ensuite onsen we soaked in the furo on the top floor with no one else occupying it
First we arrived at Usa Jinja (宇佐神宮) in less than 1 hour. It was built in the 8th century and is the Head Jingu for thousands of Jingu dedicated to Hachiman in Japan. Unfortunately, the treasure hall was closed so we left after 1 hour.
entrance to Usa Jingu
heading up
Usa Jingu
Happy New Year (in red), Reiwa 2nd year (in black)
Fuki-ji (富貴寺)
Next we drove further eastward to Fuki-ji (literally wealthy), which was also built in the 8th century. As a national treasure, the main hall is the oldest wooden structure in Kyushu. Inside there are paintings and wooden sculptures of Amida Buddha (no photo is allowed). As the temple was small we stayed for a while. Had casual lunch in a cafe nearby and caught sight of Ume in early bloom.
entering Fukiji
Main Hall
Futago-ji (両子寺)
headed further uphill to this temple of 1300 years old beneath Mt. Futago (literally twins). It’s the head temple of the Tendai sect in the peninsula. Approaching from the lower car park there is a pair of stone Nio guardians (featured photo), followed by a flight of stone stairs before arriving at the main temple area, where the Gomado Hall (literally protection against evils) is.
head temple of Tendai sect
Gomado
Kitsuki
Before returning to Beppu, dropped by Kitsuki for a coffee break and the Kitsuki Castle, which has been reconstructed and probably is the smallest castle in Japan. From the castle, it offers nice views of the Beppu Bay, Beppu and Oita city in the distance. Did not stay as rest of the ground was under construction.
After checkout on the next morning I drove eastward to Yufuin, about 160km away – D1 of using the KEP. Dropped by Hida town for breaks and lunch along the way. It was raining and probably snowing on the expressway. Snow was on mountains/trees but not on roads.
Went for Unagi and ordered Hitsumabushi-style – our fav on a cold day.
Strolled around the small town after lunch but not for long as it was cold around 2C and drizzling.
Returned to Yufuin (5th time) and had coffee in Snoopy Cafe again before checkin.
snoopy in yukata
Checked into an onsen hotel in Yufuin – in a small mountainous area where onsen is in slight bluish colour (2nd stay) and also smooth for skin complexion ! Elsewhere in Yufuin onsen is transparent.
Booked an Italian dinner course for a break. The restaurant was in the onsen town so had to meander slowly downhill via narrow road allowing 1+ car to pass thru’.
Dinner was delicious using local and Italian sources. Apart from us it seemed there were other customers though seated in a separate room. Had more than enough privacy and good service.
entrance
orange, mozerella, pork pate
Shiitake frits
50 types of fresh vege
Pasta in clams (hamaguri)
seafood in wrap
grilled Chianina beef from Italy
Strawberry parfait, Pannacotta, marshmallow
checked out on the next morning with clear views of Mt Yufuin and head to Kunisaki Peninsula.
Before leaving Takeo onsen, we dropped by the Takeo gate (Chinese style).
Headed north to Okawachiyama (大川内山) in Imari (伊万里) – a famous porcelain town less than 1 hour by national road.
While we visited Arita – another porcelain town in Saga more than 2 years ago, this porcelain village is tucked inside mountains. At the entrance is the Nabeshima-Hanyobashi (Clan Kiln Bridge) decorated with porcelain. There are pottery workshops and store-fronts inside the village, easily visited on foot.
The small Nabeshima Oniwayakikan displayed some precious and beautiful wares, where the abdicated Heisei emperor and other Japanese royal family have visited.
Nabeshima-hanyobashi
Nabeshima Oniwayakikan
visits by the Japanese royal family
Next we headed further north to coastal town Karatsu for lunch, also dropped by the renovated Karatsu Castle.
Karatsu castle
Doraemon resting
Marugame udon with oysters, scallops. Goubou and white fish in tempura
Ureshino onsen (嬉野温泉)
Finally we returned to our next onsen ryokan in Ureshino where we stayed 2 years ago. One of its annexed ryokan (15 min drive) has a large rotenburo by a mountain stream. We soaked in it before having dinner. The onsen was also smooth and good for skin complexion.
huge rotenburo – taken from poster
Dinner was sumptuous as expected. The ryokan is famous of its in-house “yu-tofu” (tofu in soup). The pot of yellow Ume (plum) on my back was fragrant.
