After checking out of the Iya onsen hotel on next morning in chill and wind, drove further inside the valley to visit Kazura-bashi – a bridge made of mountain vines.
Iya valley views along the way
koyo and biwa waterfall around the bridge
Oboke boat ride
next we headed to Oboke for a boat ride. It was smooth and lasted for 30min.
Stayed in Iya onsen hotel, which is perched on a cliff overlooking a deep valley below. Its rotenburo is 170m downhill connected by a private cable car. Koyo was at peak in the valley below.
Sumptous Kaiseki dinner served with local river fish Amego, grilled Tokushima beef and abalone etc.
Our room #503 Aioi, means couple growing old together, has an ensuite rotenburo. As the public rotenburo (downhill) was just lukewarm, we soaked in our own rotenburo on next morning prior to breakfast.
Heading downhill we arrived at Shiromine-ji – #81 temple where koyo was at peak. It was also the tomb of Sutoku Emperor (崇徳天皇白峰御陵).
Sutoku-Tenno
pilgrims
Kotohira-gu (金刀比羅宮)
next we dropped by Kotohira-gu, which is the main shrine of Kompira shrines in Japan.
Climbed several hundred stairs to reach the main hall. Nice views of Kotohira town and Sanuki-Fuji in the distance.
Asahi-hall in the middle
main hall
Sanuki-Fuji
Kotohira town below
Lunch in a modern restaurant operated by Shiseido at the foothill.
Shiawase-san. Konpira-san.
Iya valley (祖谷溪)
After leaving Kotohira-gu in Kagawa prefecture, drove via a narrow and meandering mountain road for an hour into Iya valley in western Tokushima prefecture.
Visited Shikoku and Kinki – Kobe/Nara/Kyoto/Biwako for koyo (fall foliage) in mid to late November for 2 weeks.
Aerial views of Shikoku prior to landing in KIX
Shortly before landing, plane flew across Shikoku where it looked like to be the mountain ranges in Kochi and Tokushima Prefectures. A Wind farm is on top of the mountain ridge on the right photo.
mountain ranges in Shikoku
windfarm
In KIX, had sushi lunch in one of our fav sushi shops from Osaka/Namba. Before checking in onsen hotel in Kobe/Minato, had a nice cake and coffee in Kobe/Sannomiya.
Ganko (“stubborn”) Sushi
Kan-buri, Shima-aji
Zuwani-kani, Hotate-gai
Uni from HOkkaido
Hamo !!
Aburi (fired) Nodoguro, wife had an encore of Uni
Cake and coffee in Kobe/Sannomiya
Dusk till dawn of Kobe harbour from balcony
Stayed overnight in onsen hotel for 3rd time to relax 🙂
at dusk
half crescent moon set
dawn
On next morning, took Sanyo Shinkansen from Shin-Kobe and change at Okayama for JR express train heading to Shikoku for the first time via the Seto-Ohashi. Arrived at Marugame around noon and pick up car.
Overall driving itin in Shikoku – Marugame > Zentsuji > Shiromine onsen (1N) > Goshiki-dai > Kotohira-gu > Iya valley > Iya onsen (1N) > Kazura-bashi > Oboke/Koboke boat ride > Okuboji > Ritsurin-koen > Takamatsu (2N), including day trip to Sodoshima by ferry.
It was our first visit in Shikoku (Kagawa and Tokushima Prefectures). In general, road traffic is less heavy than in the countryside of Honshu and Kyushu. Locals are nice, lodgings and dining are slightly less expensive.
Marugame Castle (丸龜城)
The Marugame Castle is one of the twelve original castles in Japan. Climb was steep at some points though we were rewarded by nice views of Sanuki-Fuji in the distance. Also bumped into Jugatsu-zakura (October-sakura) and the 47th Marugame Chrysanthemum Festival.
Had late Sanuki-udon lunch in town. It was delicious and inexpensive. Since then, we have been craving for the same elsewhere 🙂
Marugame Castle
Sanuki-Fuji in the distance
Jugatsu-zakura (October sakura)
chrysanthemum festival
outside the moat
Sanuki-udon for late lunch
Zentsu-ji (善通寺)
The birthplace of Kobo Daishi, #75 temple in Shikoku 88-temple pilgrimage.
As it was raining, slowly getting dark and cold, we did not stay long and drove back to Shiromine onsen in Sakaide.
Miedo
Kondo
5-storey pagoda
#75 temple in Shikoku
Goshiki-dai (五色台)
literally five-coloured plateau. It has 5 peaks named in 5 different colours. Drove uphill after checking out from onsen hotel, where the Shiromine-ji is closeby.
Nice views of the Seto Inland sea and the Seto-Ohashi in the distance from the observatory.
Stayed in Tateshina Tokyu Hotel for 2 nights. Located at about 1300m in a forest with golf courses, tennis courts and other facilities for families to spend in summer and winter months.
Almost perfect reflections in the pond in front of the hotel.
view from room
Shirakoma-ike (白 駒 池)
Drove up to 2100m for this pond which is famous for koyo (fall foliage) in end September. There was no koyo yet (as expected) though we trekked past a primitive forest in about 30min.
Mishaga-ike (御射鹿池)
A turquoise pond on the roadside with wonderful reflections on clear calm days. It attracted big crowds who were ferried in by coaches.
Otome-no-taki (乙女の滝)
“Virgin” waterfall and Tateshina Kogen (highland) lookout.
Otome-no-taki
Tateshina Kogen lookout
Returned car in Chino on the next day and travelled back to Tokyo by JR Chuo express train. Stayed in Tokyo/Shibuya over the weekend before returning to Hong Kong.
After checking out from Karuizawa, drove uphill to the highlands in Nagano Prefecture. It was a sunny day after typhoon #21 had passed.
Komoro
Followed the Japan Romantic Road to Komoro to visit Kaikoen (懐古園) – a park famous for sakura.
Mirror stone
Utsukushigahara Plateau Museum of Art (美ヶ原高原)
Followed the Venus Road and arrived at Utsukushigahra at 2000m where there is an open-air museum, akin to the one in Hakone Gora.
Before arriving at hotel in Tateshina Kogen, passed by Kurama-kogen @1600, Shirakaba-ko @1400m.
highest point at Utsukushigahra Kogen
Kurama-kogen
Kiri-no-eki road station
Shirakaba-ko
Melody roads along the Venus Line
I first heard it while ascending uphill from Komoro to Utsukusigahara Kogen @2000m and thought that might just be some random noise. However, when I was on the way descending to Kirigamine Kogen, the “Ode to Joy” melody (of Beethoven Symphony #9) was played out clearly.
3rd visit to this onsen town though first time by car. Drove about 1 hour+ uphill.
Yubatake (湯畑)
Symbol of Kusatsu onsen with a flow of 5000 litres per minute.
Sainokawara Kōen (西の河原公園)
Went to the huge rotenburo in Sainokawara park for daytime onsen again. It could easily accommodate 100+ people. We hardly visit daytime onsens as we usually stay in onsen hotels/ryokans in each trip but this is not to be missed.
Admission fee is JPY600 per adult. We brought towels from hotel.
Sainokawara Koen rotenburo
#1 onsen in Japan for 15 consecutive years
Yumomi performance
A traditional method to cool down Kusatsu onsen without diluting it by stirring it with large wooden paddles. The performance includes folk songs and dancing by the ladies. Visitors were invited to join the stirring before it ended in about 30 min.
On the way back to Karuizawa, dropped by two waterfalls – Asama and Uotome in Mt Asama.
Visited the countryside of Nagano Prefecture along parts of the Romantic Road for few days. Rented a car to visit Karuizawa, Kusatsu onsen, Komoro, the highland areas including Utsukushigahara-kogen, Kuramayama-kogen, Shirakaba-ko, Tateshina-kogen etc.
Returned car in Chino and took JR Chuo express train back to Tokyo.
Stayed in Karuizawa Prince Hotel East Wing with free access to onsen for few nights.
Before typhoon #21 hit Japan, we drove uphill to visit Kusatsu onsen town as a day trip.
On the next day, we drove around Karuizawa while it started to drizzle and turn into heavier rain during the day.
After late lunch we dropped by the blue pond again. As it was a calm and sunny day, reflections were almost perfect. While it was as crowded as in a large open market, we returned to our onsen resort in Naka-Furano soon afterwards.
Shirahige falls
Hokuryu Himawari (sunflower) festival
On the next morning, after checking out from the Nakafurano onsen resort, we drove to Hokuryu for its sunflower festival. On the way, we dropped by a small mount near Fukagawa where there was a Tottoro bus.
As the sunflowers were less than impressive (compared to our trip in Oct 2009 in Biei), we did not stay long and head back to Sapporo for lunch.
Mt Tokachi range from room
viewed from Kami-Furano
Tottoro bus in the wild
Hokuryu sunflower festival
Back in Sapporo
While this kaiten-sushi shop in JR Tower Sapporo is often crowded with long line, its shop in southern Sapporo has free parking. When we arrived it had plenty of vacant seats.
In the evening, we went for dinner in Mikuni – the French restaurant of JR Tower Hotel Nikko Sapporo.
visited Tomita farm in the morning to avoid excessive crowds and for easier parking. The lavender and flower fields composed into a colourful palette, as on posters 🙂
This was the most beautiful farm and not to be missed in peak lavender season.
Shikisai-no-oka
Not much lavender but colourful fields in stripes.
roll-kun at the entrance 🙂
Hinode-koen (Sunrise park)
The lavender was grown along the slopes of a small mount in Naka (middle) Furano. It’s a popular spot for wedding photos.
Lunch in Biei forest
a small hut inside the Biei forest serving Swiss style cuisine.